WHAT'S TO EAT Curanto is a mix of seafood, fish, sausage, and potato cakes, all wrapped in large leaves and slowly steamed over coals. It's not often on restaurant menus, but you'll find it at Balzac in Puerto Montt, and as a Sunday special at other places. Yogerst's favorite meal was at Asturias, a tiny café that overlooks the port at Puerto Montt and serves excellent seafood. Wald suggests heading to the end of Angelmo pier in Puerto Montt, where 30 small cafés serve superfresh seafood. Look for the famous Chilote cheese there or in any market. In Castro, on Chiloé, Wald recommends Café la Br¿jula del Cuerpo for lunch and espresso, and Don Octavio for regional seafood. In Achao, she suggests Mar y Velas (Sea and Sails) at the end of the pier, for the views and inexpensive seafood.