If you love old walled cities, with narrow streets, ornate buildings with timeworn facades and small cafes and shops, make Nicosia your first stop. The city itself if more than 1,000 years old, and a good place to start exploring the past is the Famagusta Gate, one of the original entrances to the old city. Then head to the Cyprus Museum for a collection of Roman and pre-Roman antiquities and the Agios Ioannis (St. John) Cathedral for a look at some beautifully restored frescoes. Stop for lunch in Laiki Geitonia, an atmospheric, pedestrian-only shopping area, and visit the Cyprus Handicraft Centre just off the main Lemesos road, where you'll find examples of the traditional, handmade Lefkaritika lace. If, after a very full day, the nightlife is calling, go outside the city walls to modern Lefkosia, where a world of trendy restaurants, discos, and bars awaits.