From Haida Gwaii:

Standing face to face with this ancient totem pole, I’m looking for answers. I’m on a journey through British Columbia’s wildest archipelago, the stormy Haida Gwaii Islands, on a quest to discover how a First Nation people who nearly vanished in 1911 made such a remarkable comeback. ‘We live on the edge of a knife,’ a Haida man tells me, ‘without regret for the past or worry for the future.’ I find this philosophy enlightened, but is that the secret to their resilience, or is there something more? ∏hey point me to SGang Gwaay, a long-dead island village on the far edge of the archipelago, where supernatural carvings on totem poles hold secrets and the forests are full of spirits, not all of them friendly to an outsider.