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How to Travel to Carriacou on $73 a Day

June 2, 2014

With a prop-planes-only airstrip, all-to-yourself beaches and no name-brand hotels, Grenada’s laid-back sister island has the charm — and prices — of a place unknown. More goats than people here.

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Play for $0-$5 a day

Petit Carenage: For sweet isolation — and perfect sea-urchin shells — I head to Windward Village. Civilization seems far away, yet this crescent is just a short walk through mangrove forest from the road. Rum Shops: There are more than 100 of ’em. A visit to Bill Paterson’s, behind his general store in Hillsborough, means meeting other Kayaks (as Carriacouans are known) over a $3.75 rum (coke on the side). Flavio Vallenari
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Stay for $65-$120 a night

Bayaleau Point: Perched on the island’s windward edge, none of the four color-splashed cottages at Bayaleau Point are alike, but all include basic budget-helping kitchenettes. The breezy communal deck that hangs above the ocean is where the action is — since I define “action” as lounging with a glass of owner Dave Goldhill’s Magic Elixir, hypnotized by distant islands bobbing in a turquoise bath. Low-season rates from $65-$115 a night. Round House Cottages: Across the isle on Sparrow Bay, chef-owner Roxanne Russell’s dogs are happy to keep me company on my beach walks. Surrounded by tropical flowers, the trio of cottages have small fridges and stove tops, but frankly, mine didn’t get much of a workout. The quirky stone building — even its windows are round — that I can see from my door is home to Russell’s acclaimed restaurant. Low-season rates of $97-$120 a night.
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Eat for $8-$20 a day

Lambi Queen: The barbecue at Sherwin Noel’s Lambi Queen in Tyrrel Bay attracts major crowds every Friday night. Start with lambi (conch) fritters, followed by a whole grilled snapper, likely caught that morning by Sherwin’s father. After dinner, live steel pan, cold Caribs and standout rum punch keep things interesting. The whole snapper goes for about $15. Laurena II Jerk Centre: A hearty local lunch of jerk chicken or pork with West Indian sides like macaroni pie and peas and rice set me back just a bit more than my $5 venti frappuccino back home. The Slipway: Go for a romantic candlelit dinner — and a fab seared tuna and tuna carpaccio — in Tyrrel Bay. It’s as close to the beach as I could get and still keep my feet dry. The menu changes daily, but the prices hover around $20. Did You Know? The Grenadines is the only country in the Caribbean where petroglyphs have been found.
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