Standing here, I feel justified in abandoning the south coast, and the capital of Palma so quickly. Although much of Mallorca has seen a rise in development and a surge of tourists, the north has seen less, although it does attract its share of admirers: Artists continue to find this part of the world inspirational. I want to see the island through their eyes, searching out "art" in not only the obvious venues, like galleries and museums, but also in unlikely places, like in landscape, food and daily living. I leave windswept Formentor and start my pilgrimage in Deia, a hilltop village on the northwest coast, where Robert Graves lived. "Deia used to be a place where people came to work seriously," says Tomas Graves, who was born and raised on the island and is the son of the famous poet.