Day 1: Check into the Kandui Resort
For this remote region, travel options are limited to charter boats and surf resorts. Of the latter, the Kandui Resort is considered the Cadillac. The all-inclusive sits on its own private island, can arrange your travel and hosts just 16 guests at a time. The resort's umas (Mentawai huts) offer air conditioning, hot water and Wi-Fi. But I mainly just slept there. The resort's lodge and the daily surf excursions to nearby islands are the big draw.