We stop in at Mama’s Restaurant, a ramshackle open-air eatery, home to Mama and her two sons, Huang Ning, 37, and Huang Wen, 26, Riyuewan’s ﬁrst local surfers. Though I speak no Chinese, and my last visit was a while ago, they welcome me as family. Even Mama jogs over for a hug. “Now there are surfers all the time here,” Huang Ning tells me through a translator. The brothers are happy for the new business. Mama’s now rents boards in addition to serving fresh seafood.