“There was an announcement recently that it’s a national priority for Hainan to become an international tourism island,” says Brendan, explaining the building boom. “The central government in Beijing is focusing a lot on Hainan right now.” The small village of Riyuewan, however, has seen little development. There’s only one hotel, which caters to busloads of Chinese tourists on carefully scripted tours of Hainan. Twice a day, like clockwork, large tour buses deposit hundreds of tourists in the village. Nearly all are clad in aloha print tops and shorts as they visit a small museum and watch a staged ceremony to bless the local ﬁshing ﬂeet. Heck, for all I know, surfer-watching may even be on the itinerary now. They’re ogling their own homeland. It’s a novelty to them.