Cowboy was a large Hawaiian who had been surfing for 49 of his 55 years. Teach me, I said. "OK, Carl," he said. (Some misapprehension there.) "You're a big boy," he added, and took a ten-foot barge out of the rack. On Waikiki's imported sand, Cowboy showed me what to do. Push up, one foot up, one knee up, two feet up, both hands up, look up, crouched, balanced, perfect. I was a genius.