On day two, I vowed to atone for my gluttony with exercise: a session on the treadmill, kayaking, a stroll around the 25-acre property and swimming in the circuitous pools. But the stroll and swim were accompanied with frothy drinks spiked with a generous shot of liquor. By dinnertime I'd abandoned my dietary agenda: Bring on the epicurean orgy! None of the restaurants require reservations, so we took a culinary world tour, eating each course in a different venue. In French Chez Isabelle's, we sampled from a cellar stocked with 500 bottles (which inclued a $1,200 2002 Chateau Lafitte Rothschild; house wines, however, are complimentary). My husband raved over the salt-encrusted whole fish at Barcelona. At Pan-Asian Spice, we enjoyed piquant Thai beef salad and ginger-and-green-tea ice cream. And Toscana's Caprese salad with herbed pita bread slathered with honey-tomato sauce was a deliciously inventive riff on an Italian standard. Our favorite was Agave, a traditional Mexican eatery where a mariachi trio entertained. We particularly loved the Mayan coffee, theatrically prepared tableside, laced with flaming brandy, Kahlua and the anise liqueur xtabentun and then crowned with vanilla ice cream. Arriba!