MUST SNORKEL Palawan's most fertile coral gardens, 100 miles southeast of Puerto Princesa in the Sulu Sea at Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park.

MUST WANDER down Puerto Princesa's Rizal Avenue for a giant lobster or bowl of pho with the locals.

MUST EXPLORE northern Palawan's seascape of craggy bays and towering limestone cliffs by kayak. Most resorts around El Nido can get you there.

MUST STAY at Dos Palmas Arreceffi Island Resort Palawan's ten cottages on stilts above the sea, or at Amanpulo, on reef-rimmed Pamalican in the Cuyo Islands.

MUST TASTE seafood with lemongrass and sour green mangoes. An upscale favorite in the capital is Caf¿ Puerto.