I hover, snorkeling over one of the most pristine reefs I've ever seen, punctuated by purple, yellow and red corals. The reef ripples with the movements of legions of iridescent fish, shy crabs and wildly colored sea slugs, and then I get lucky - a manta ray passes, looking like an animated flying carpet. Its grace reveals my own awkwardness in the water. But I don't care. I'm in awe, and the water feels like cool silk caressing my body.