Day 1: I'm in the middle of a U.S. National Park 170 acres donated in 1956 by Laurance S. Rockefeller, who used Caneel Bay on St. John's north coast as a spiritual retreat. OK, it's not as if the 1950s were full of distractions, but Caneel still has a no-phone, no-TV policy in the rooms. Silence. "It's sonic depletion," says Jan Kinder, who founded the Self Centre at Caneel Bay in 2002. From my yoga mat I hear gentle waves and bird song. Not quite sonic depletion. After Qigong and yoga, Jan leads me to a chair where we begin a mantra meditation. The Self Centre is to be my Caribbean ashram, but Jan instructs, "Go apply what you've learned," and gestures toward the flamboyant trees, the frangipani, the palms and the sea. I step outside, take a deep Ujjayi breath and begin the walk back to my cottage on Scott Beach, passing two deer and three wild donkeys.