I’m running down Jaco parrots through the Dominican rain- forest, and trying not to trip over Jurassic Park-size roots as my eyes fix on the canopy above. “Right there!” my guide, Max, says. He points skyward, at birds I clearly can’t see. I can only hear them. There’s a burst of winged movement, and for an instant I can make out the distinguishing blue cheeks before the elusive bird vanishes again from my sight.