6:30 p.m. I retreat to Benz's Restaurant. A bear would feel at home in here. Wood, wood, everywhere. Even the timber poles are made of reclaimed driftwood. The chef, Khun Benz, has prepared Mieng Kham, a Thai leaf appetizer with palm sugar, peanuts, ginger and a shrimp sauce. (Tomorrow, at breakfast in another resort restaurant, all the ingredients will be written on dried leaves in front of me, and the honey will arrive on a full honeycomb suspended above a split bamboo stalk.) Sustainable and wholesome are buzzwords in this place. Add one more: fun.