Here in Hawaii, the most popular kind of honey is kiawe. Apis mellifera, the domestic honeybee, of course never flew to Hawaii; it was first brought on ships in the 1800s by people who knew that the flavors of these jungled islands would be amazing. And they were right. Kiawe, a pretty, tasty white honey, is just one of Hawaii's honey varieties. Still, in each grocery store I visit, whether in Honolulu or on the outskirts of Waialua, that's about all that's on offer: either kiawe or imported honey in plastic bears. Because make no mistake: All honeys are not the same. That bear honey is a mutt, a blend from Chinese or Brazilian hives, with no attention paid to what kind of flowers the bees are chasing. Truly fine honey is flower-specific, and Hawaii's convoluted geography means that a lot of these flavors can be crammed into a very small space.