Our last stop before lunch was at Cloudy Bay Vineyards, one of the places that put Marlborough sauvignon blanc on the map. The winery, situated in a grove of eucalyptus gum trees, is ringed by hills on three sides. It's shaped like a horseshoe, with the northeast opening facing Queen Charlotte Sound, a source of cool maritime breezes. Winemaker Kevin Judd gave us a good pour of his pale, strawgreen wine. It has all the elements of a summer fruit salsa -- peach, passion fruit, mango -- with a sprinkling of fresh ginger and a dash of pastis. Smiling as I take a second sip, Kevin told me someone once said that drinking one's first New Zealand sauvignon blanc was like having sex for the first time. "Of course," he added, "I think that's taking it a bit too far." I'm not so sure. The wine is the perfect expression of a benchmark New Zealand sauvignon blanc -- clean, lively, with bushels of citrus fruit and loads of minerality. A summer party in a bottle.