That's what I'm looking for. With the same sense of adventure some tourists reserve for exploring coral reefs or lava fields, I've spent a week on the Big Island stalking typical Hawaiian dishes. I've gone from Kailua Kona in the west to Hilo in the east, hitting diners and platelunch joints. And I've found some pretty exotic specimens - the results of centuries of Asian, Polynesian, European and American culinary influences. I plowed through servings of loco moco (hamburger patties with a fried egg, rice and gravy) and chicken katsu (fried Japanese style), all accompanied by big scoops of macaroni salad. I slurped through a deep bowl of saimin noodles, and of course I had Spam musubi, slices of grilled Spam on blocks of sushi rice. But after a week of carb loading, I want a taste of Hawaii itself. A taste that's raw.