For a day of waterfalls and stunning coastal scenery, follow the Windward Road. Start early from Scarborough, the island capital, and make your first stop at Rainbow Falls, a 10-minute walk away. At Belle Garden, the restored Richmond GreatHouse (1776) has a large collection of African art - and a wonderful hilltop view. A little farther on, Argyle Falls (a 20-minute nature walk) is the island's highest. After lunch in Speyside, go on to Charlotteville for a swim and a visit to Flagstaff Hill and a view of this classic fishing village - and, fittingly, one of the Caribbean's finest natural harbors.