I step off our boat and race down the dock past the lizard, following in the steps of my husband, Mike, and the 10 other tourists who have sailed with us to this remote Indonesian island to see the dragons. We don't have to walk far to get more of what we came for. Just steps within the park, we see that the dragons are everywhere. Their humongous bodies sprawl across the path to the bathroom, they linger under the steps of the tourist cabins, they gather in groups by the nature center. I expected to have to travel deep into the island's heart to catch a glimpse of one of these beasts; instead, they're lining up at my feet, preparing themselves, it seems, for an all-you-can-eat buffet.