At the first fork, Kaci stops a man with few teeth and no helmet on a motorbike. Well, he says it's our decision, but if it were him, he'd take the uphill road. "Ask again up at the snack shop." My map, which shows the bay but not the falls, classifies these routes not as A-, B- or even C-class, but "Other road," catchall for any backwoods track you shouldn't drive in a Honda Civic. Kaci accelerates and brakes, threading the remnant pavement through potentially axle-busting ruts and crater-size potholes.