“He wants to know what you saw,” Mohammed says. I tell Abdul he should put on the mask and see for himself. He shakes his head, appalled by the notion. “He does not swim,” says Mohammed. Neither does Mohammed. Or anyone else on board. For all that makes the Indian Ocean instrumental in their lives, Maldivians do not look kindly upon it. The ocean is both highway and grocery store. It takes them places and provides them food. It is not much used for pleasure. If anything, in the Maldives there’s a general and altogether valid sense that the ocean cannot be trusted. The country’s 1,200-plus islands are flatter than flounder, and if the most dire of warnings about global warming hold true, then the Maldives could, one day not all that far off, quite simply disappear.