WHAT'S TO EAT Welcome to the land of dolma, kabob, and baklava. Turkey's extensive cuisine is based on grains (rice and wheat, primarily), vegetables, and grilled meats and seafood. As for restaurants, Istanbul is loaded with them, but Perrottet's favorite turned out to be The Alternative, on the waterfront in G¿cek. The chef-owner there uses less oil than is typical in Turkey, and he has added a touch of French culinary style. And while Turkish red wines aren't great, the whites are fine ("very palatable," according to Perrottet).