READ IT AND LEAP Whenever their "organized" travel plans went astray, Brewer and Smith fell back on Lonely Planet"s reliable Fiji: A Travel Survival Kit. One of the most entertaining reads about old Fiji is Life in Feejee: Five Years Among The Cannibals, written "By A Lady" and published in 1851. The lady in question was Mary Wallis, wife of Benjamin Wallis, captain of the ship Zotoff, which sailed out of Salem, Massachusetts. Wallis"s writing is lively and humorous and paints a colorful tableau of the traders, sea captains, beachcombers, and warring chieftains in the wild days of the South Pacific. It"s available in paperback from the Fiji Museum in Suva, where you can also get Elsie Stephenson"s Fiji"s Past on Picture Postcards. It features reprints of some amazing old South Sea postcards and an engaging history of the towns, streets, and buildings pictured in them.