DO visit the petite islands off of Unguja, reachable by dhow or short flight. Charming Chapwani Island, for instance, is close enough for a day or overnight trip from Stone Town. It's a modish private resort featuring a stellar beach, restaurant and diverse ecosystem of starfish, eagles, bats, white and black egrets, herons, dik diks and shy giant crabs. Changuu Island, better known as Prison Island, is the sort of paradoxical place that Zanzibar abounds in. It's both a stunning beach resort and a slice of sad history: a former detention center for rebel slaves, it became a prison and then a quarantine station.