California's Sonoma County Hides This Summertime Haven Mixing Redwoods, Calm River Waters, And Vineyards

Tucked away along the Russian River is the town of Guerneville. It was founded in the 1850s as a logging town, and while it may be small, with a population of around 4,500 people, it has everything you could want in a Northern California vacation. It's about a two-hour drive from San Francisco International Airport, depending on traffic. Having a car to get around the Guerneville area is pretty much a necessity since there's not much public transportation. Plus, that gives you more flexibility as you explore the area; Sonoma County's Russian River Valley has great wineries and fantastic riverside picnic spots.

Guerneville is famously a popular LGBTQ+ destination, and it has been ever since the late 1970s when a number of establishments in the town promoted themselves as gay friendly, not long after the repeal of laws that criminalized homosexuality. One of those establishments was the Rainbow Cattle Company, a bar that is still on Main Street today.

During the summer, the Russian River runs slowly, so a popular seasonal pastime in Guerneville is floating the river, swimming in the calm waters, and spending time at the beach. The beaches' composition of gravel and sand can change from year to year based on the water flows during winter, but Johnson's Beach is a consistent favorite that dates back to 1918. There are boats, beach umbrellas, and other fun things to rent here, as well as a range of accommodation options from cabins to glamping tents to campsites, if you have your gear for a camping retreat.

Pick up your provisions for a day at the Russian River beaches at Guerneville's Piknik Town Market; it has sandwiches, chicken salad, and legendary biscuits. If you're in the need of a caffeine pick-me-up, Coffee Bazaar has fresh-roasted coffee along with smoothies, sandwiches, and classic breakfast dishes like eggs and bacon. If you're in Guerneville on a Thursday during the summer, you can get some fresh food at the farmers market. It runs from 3 to 7 p.m. from June to August.

Along with being a destination for riverside fun, the Russian River Valley is its own American Viticultural Area (AVA), and it's known for its pinot noir and chardonnay. To taste some of the area's offerings, visit Equality Vines on Guerneville's Main Street, where you can do some good while buying wine. Proceeds from the sale of Equality Vines' curated collection of wines from local winemakers go to a number of different organizations that work for equal rights. Just five minutes from downtown Guerneville is Korbel Winery. The brand makes California Champagne, an official designation for some sparkling wines, and you can sample it on site in the tasting room. The winery also offers tours of the property, including a museum. Then there's the family-owned Porter-Bass Winery. Make an appointment to sample its biodynamic wines in the shade of a large walnut tree with views of the vineyards.

For more local flavors, Boon eat + drink serves Russian River wines that pair well with seasonal dishes like beet salad with goat cheese, mint, and hazelnuts; flash-fried Brussels sprouts; and pan-seared salmon. Trillium Winebar & Taproom is a small spot that also highlights local wines, along with fresh oysters and seafood.

Just north of Guerneville is the 805-acre Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve. It has the same coastal redwoods, the world's tallest tree species, that you can find at Muir Woods National Monument near San Francisco, but with far fewer crowds. The Pioneer Nature Trail is 1.5 miles and takes you past some of the park's most impressive trees. For more of a challenge, you can hike the East Ridge Trail and the Pool Ridge Trail for a loop of around 5.5 miles with plenty of elevation gain.

While you could make Guerneville a day trip from San Francisco, what could be better than waking up to a morning in the redwoods? It's well worth staying a night (or two or more) in Guerneville. There are a number of small boutique inns and hotels in the area, including The Stavrand, which is a short walk from the center of town. It has 21 guest rooms set on six forested acres. Then there's Mine + Farm Inn, which was listed as one of Time magazine's "World's Greatest Places 2024." It's a nine-room adults-focused bed and breakfast that specializes in cannabis, including some grown on the property. The inn also has carefully selected local wines (as well as beer and cider) available for purchase. 

The River Electric opened in 2025, and this camp resort and swim club by the river has 40 glamping tents and two pools, which are available for those who purchase day passes as well as for overnight guests. Lounge poolside and enjoy snacks like Russian River ceviche with local cod and a boozy root beer float.