Sicily's Hidden Gem Is An Ancient Nature Preserve Near Ethereal Rivers And A Vast Gorge With Winding Trails
Blessed with stunning ancient ruins, a dramatic turquoise coastline, incredible cuisine, and domineering Mount Etna, the sun-kissed island of Sicily is one of Italy's most popular tourist destinations. While this Mediterranean isle off the tip of Italy's boot isn't quite one of Europe's most overtouristed places, it still sees 21.5 million annual visitors, which makes it challenging to find tranquil moments amid the architectural symphony of Palermo, or along the powdery sands and craggy cliffs that buttress Sicily's best beaches.
In Syracuse, a tourist hot spot where decayed ruins mingle gloriously with Baroque facades, it's the norm to fight for photo bomb-free selfies at the Roman Amphitheater and the Temple of Apollo. For those seeking wonder without the crowds, head an hour inland from the city to the stunning Valle dell'Anapo Nature Reserve. This hidden gem boasts ethereal rivers, winding trails, Bronze Age and Byzantine ruins, and the mesmerizing 5,000-year-old Necropolis of Pantalica.
A serene and sprawling 10,000-acre nature reserve in the southeast of Sicily, Valle dell'Anapo, or Anapo Valley, is brimming with unique biodiversity and extraordinary natural beauty. The expansive valley exists thanks to the work of the crystalline Anapo and Calcinara rivers, which formed the massive gorge over thousands of years as flowing water eroded the earth. The reserve's menagerie of animals lives among lush woodlands and rugged cliffs that are dappled with pretty oleanders, fragrant orchid trees, and towering oaks.
Ensconced inside the reserve is the Necropolis of Pantalica, a millennial-old burial site with thousands of tombs honeycombed throughout cliffs. The necropolis, along with the nature reserve, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of seven in Sicily. Anapo Valley also encompasses the quaint villages of Buscemi, Palazzolo Acreide, Ferla, Cassaro, and Sortino, some of which are entrances to the nature reserve.
The 5,000 tombs at Anapo Valley's Necropolis of Pantalica comprise Europe's largest burial ground
A major highlight of visiting Anapo Valley is exploring the fascinating Necropolis of Pantalica. Dating from the 13th century B.C., the mass graveyard is the largest necropolis in Europe, making it one of Sicily's most significant archaeological sites. The necropolis is a remnant of the prehistoric settlement that sprang up here when dwellers along the coast fled inland once strangers began arriving on the island by sea. The steep cliffs made for an inhospitable landscape that would protect them against threats.
The indigenous settlement left behind a remarkable 5,000 burial chambers carved into the limestone cliffs at the summit of the valley. These "grotticella artificiale," or artificial grottos, were built to house the dead in the 13th and eighth centuries B.C. The tombs have long since been plundered, but they're still a remarkable sight to behold. Additionally, you can also scale up to the 12th-century ruins of the Anaktaron, or "prince's palace." Flat stones pitched in the earth outline massive rooms inside the megalithic structure, where it's believed a prehistoric monarchy once ruled over the settlement. The ruins of three Byzantine villages settled during a subsequent occupation in the ninth century, a time when villagers sought refuge from Arab raids, are also worth a visit.
The reserve has four main entrances. The best option to easily reach the ruins and necropolis is through Ferla. Inside the village, signs for Pantalica will guide you to the Sella di Filiporto parking lot, then subsequently to an information point run by the forestry service. Grab a map of the reserve here, then continue along the path until you reach the necropolis.
Hike Valle dell'Anapo's vast and breathtaking gorge along winding trails
Italy boasts some incredible hiking spots, like Alta Via 1, a scenic trail in the Italian Alps nestled among cozy inns and World War I history. Nature enthusiasts exploring Anapo Valley can expect a network of verdant routes that reveal ancient ruins, slice across cliffs, and meander alongside glassy rivers. These paths give way to sweeping panoramic views peppered by herbaceous fragrances like sage, thyme, and fennel. Visitors will find opportunities to take a refreshing dip in water and spot animals like foxes, falcons, eagles, and porcupines. Enthuses one Google review: "Brilliant for trekking and adventure. We got to stop and swim in the freezing water of the natural waterfall which is a must!!"
The reserve has several well-marked hiking trails. These vary from moderate to intense, so visitors can find something suitable for all levels. If you enter the reserve through the Sortino or Ferla entrances, you can walk a moderate 8-mile path that follows along the railway of an early 20th-century train that ran between Syracuse and the town of Vizzini in Catania. You'll also discover a museum inside the old railway station, and some old train tunnels to explore. The hiking website AllTrails outlines several paths of varying degrees of difficulty, including a moderate 6.2-mile loop that includes the opportunity to bathe in the river, and a steeper 5-hour route for more experienced hikers.
The best times to visit this Sicilian oasis are in spring and fall, when it's dry, temperate, and the vegetation is in full bloom. Summer temperatures on the island have recently soared to record highs of over 104 degrees Fahrenheit, so it's best to avoid strenuous hikes in the reserve during this season.