Puerto Rico's 'Pork Highway' Offers A Mouth-Watering Caribbean Adventure Beyond The Beaches

When you think of Puerto Rico, you likely think of white sand, sunlit shores, and bodies moving to upbeat Caribbean music. Located in the northeastern Caribbean Sea, Puerto Rico may be a tropical paradise home to the best beaches in the West Indies, but it also has a mouthwatering gastronomy scene. 

Many travelers flock to the island for the ultimate holiday escape from the cold, but it's more than the weather that's heating up on this U.S. territory. Situated 40 minutes south of San Juan along Route 184, the "Pork Highway" in Guavate, known as "La Ruta del Lechón" by the locals, is a road filled with lechoneras. These are outdoor restaurants that serve up one of the most popular Puerto Rican dishes: Roasted pig.

What makes this traditional dish so inviting is the slow cooking process that takes place over hot charcoal. After around eight hours, the result is tender, juicy meat cased inside golden, crispy skin. You'll be spoilt for choice on this winding highway path, as each kiosk has its own distinctive recipe. The most popular is the "adobo", made from salt, pepper, garlic, oregano, achiote, and a classic local sweet pimiento named ajíes dulces. Rich sides accompany the roasted meat, such as potato salad, pigeon peas, boiled vegetables like yuca and taro root, mofongo (smashed plantain), and traditional plates like pasteles — plantain tamales stuffed with pork and wrapped in banana leaves. Workers begin roasting at 3 a.m., honing their skills while carving and chopping an average of 10 pigs each day.

As you drive along the mountainous route, just follow the appetizing aromas, as this will lead you to Guavate's most famous food spot, the Pork Highway. Here, outdoor restaurants welcome weekend visitors with delicious servings, vibrant music, and joyous energy. Lechonera Los Pinos is an especially popular restaurant and was even featured in one episode of celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain's hit show "No Reservations." Established in the 1970s, this restaurant attracts tourists from all over the world, all of whom are treated to locally-sourced ingredients.

Guavate is not the only place where you can sink your teeth into luscious roasted pork, though. The towns of Naranjito and Trujillo Alto offer pork delicacies as well. Located 30 miles from San Juan, Naranjito's lechoneras are scattered along PR-152 highway, providing comfort food such as the well-known roasted pig, blood sausage (morcilla), and pickled green bananas (guineítos en escabeche). La Casita de Hiram is a recommended place to stop. Trujillo Alto is about a half-hour drive from San Juan along PR-175, mixing live music with a gastronomy experience soaked in true Puerto Rican culture.

Prices at these restaurants are budget-friendly, ranging from $10 to $15, including two sides. If you are sharing with a group, you can order the roast pork by weight, which costs between $12 and $16 per pound. And once you are on the island, why not get adventurous with your dishes? Opt for a plate of lechón with rice and a side, and maybe even have a bite of stewed pig stomach. As you might have guessed, Puerto Rico is not the best vacation spot for non-meat eaters. If you're looking for a more harmonious destination, explore other spots where carnivores and vegans can enjoy a conflict-free vacation.