Between Scarborough And Bridlington Is A Victorian Coastal Town With A Sandy Beach, Wildlife, And Gardens
Carved into Yorkshire's North Sea coast between Scarborough and Bridlington, Filey is a traditional seaside town with a golden sandy beach, pretty Victorian architecture, and a much quieter atmosphere than its better-known neighbors, as it has fewer large attractions and amusement arcades. The town sits around the picturesque Filey Bay, a broad sweep of sand backed by grassy cliffs, while its compact center has cafés, pubs, and plenty of shops selling seaside souvenirs.
Filey makes a useful base for exploring Yorkshire's coast, with paths leading along the sea in both directions. A section of the King Charles III England Coast Path, for example, runs for 21 miles from Bridlington to the natural formation Filey Brigg.
Filey's award-winning gardens are popular spots from which to admire ships drifting across the horizon. Nearby, the Filey Dams Nature Reserve — the area's last remaining freshwater marsh – attracts migratory birds and other wildlife such as water voles.
Filey Brigg and Yorkshire's dramatic coastline
The dramatic Filey Brigg is at the northern end of Filey Bay. The rocky headland, which extends into the North Sea, is one of the town's most distinctive natural features, with rock pools, geological formations, and seals. The name "brigg" — which survives in Yorkshire place names and dialect — is thought to derive from the Old Scandinavian word "briggja," meaning a rugged promontory. This reflects the region's strong Scandinavian linguistic heritage, which dates back to when Vikings arrived in the eighth century and settled in the charming city of York.
Filey's broad beach stretches for several miles along the town and out to the end of the Brigg. The beach is particularly appealing for long, sunset walks. The Cleveland Way, meanwhile, follows the clifftops along the coast, providing views across the bay and toward the surrounding headlands, which are often colored by vibrant wildflowers.
Wildlife lovers should continue south towards RSPB Bempton Cliffs, around 20 minutes by car or a seriously beautiful 3- to 4-hour hike along chalk cliffs. During breeding season between March and August, the cliffs are home to thousands of seabirds including gannets; guillemots; and delightful, clown-faced puffins. The puffins typically arrive from April and are usually present until mid-July, making spring and early summer the best time to visit if you want to see them. From Bempton Cliffs, it's an 80-minute amble to Flamborough, where sheer, white cliffs carved with caves encircle a stunning cove of clear, blue water.
Traditional Victorian gardens and shops in Filey
Back in town, Crescent Gardens provides a quiet, rose-scented sanctuary from which to experience Filey's Victorian character. The landscaped gardens' lawns and flowerbeds sit in front of the Crescent — a street of elegant Victorian houses — and above the beach, so they have views across the bay. An ornate, Victorian promenade below the crescent follows the curve of the beach, punctuated by chalets and a sculpture trail.
Filey's center is compact enough to explore without a car, with small, independent stores such as the whimsically named Wish Upon A Starfish, which sells coastal-themed gifts and souvenirs. Wander down to the seafront and you'll find amusement arcades, fish and chip shops, and Coble Landing, a sloped ramp for wooden fishing boats, which Yorkshire lore suggests may have evolved from Viking longboats.
Filey is well connected, with trains running along the Yorkshire coast to places like Scarborough — a seaside town known for its beaches and seafood. From Scarborough, the stunning Whitby Abbey, which inspired Bram Stoker's "Dracula," is around a 30-minute drive away.