Nestled Inside A National Park In Wales Is A Scenic Lake With Mountain Views, Fishing, And Crystal-Clear Water
When it comes to highland lakes in Wales, few are as gasp-inducing as wild Llyn Idwal. Covering just 13 hectares and hitting an average depth of a mere 11 feet, it's no biggie by any stretch of the imagination. But what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in sheer drama. Idwal, you see, is cradled by some of the most rugged and raw peaks that Wales can muster, deep within the northern reaches of the Eryri National Park.
Around it, some of the most legendary hikes in the whole reserve weave and wiggle their way up jagged ridges, across scree slopes, and onto mountaintops like Glyder Fawr (the fifth-highest peak in Wales) and Tryfan (a summit steeped in myth that's been hailed as one of the best-loved in all of Britain). It's beneath that rather spectacular backdrop that Llyn Idwal glints and glows with its super-clear waters, offering a stirring place for people to sit and gawp at the surroundings, or somewhere truly unique to sling the fishing rod.
Getting here means doing at least a short hike from the nearest trailhead, which is about a 20-minute walk down a rocky path that cuts through bogs and crosses gushing rivers after leaving the National Trust Ogwen Valley Car Park. Be sure to arrive nice and early to get a parking space, as it can get quite crowded! To reach the parking lot itself, you're looking at a drive of a little over 1.5 hours from both the Liverpool John Lennon Airport (LPL), which is the closest overall, and the Manchester Airport (MAN), which, as the third-busiest airport in the country, has more flight arrivals, but is about 10 miles farther away by road. Those already in North Wales can drive up in 30 minutes from either the quaint village of Beddgelert to the south or from the medieval town of Conwy to the north.
Glimmering waters and fishing spots at Llyn Idwal
One of the first things you'll notice as Llyn Idwal emerges around that bend in the hiking path is just how clear the water really is. Indeed, this happens to be a particularly striking example of what's known as an oligotrophic lake. These types of lakes tend to have the clearest water of all, made possible by a lack of nutrients — which, in turn, results in a lack of organic matter. On still days, the surface will mirror the surrounding peaks and glow shades of cobalt and teal as the sun shifts in the sky.
Swimming in Llyn Idwal is now entirely prohibited, but fishing is still allowed. For that, you'll need to grab a permit from the local Ogwen Valley Angling Association and adhere to a range of local regulations covering everything from fish size limits to use of specific baits. Wild brown trout is the most common species caught here, which you'll need to chase from lakeside spots since watersports and boating aren't allowed.
A path wraps its way around the whole lake, but access to the shoreline itself is easier on the northern banks of Llyn Idwal, where the route skirts close to the lapping water. To the south, the path clambers higher, over countless little streams that trickle down from the summits above, and over big fragments of rock hewn from the mountainsides — it's better for enjoying scenic views than getting close to the water.
Hiking around spectacular Llyn Idwal
Llyn Idwal is just one of the many lures that beckon in the Ogwen Valley, a super-dramatic enclave of Wales' largest national park watched over by the Glyderau mountains on one side and the Carneddau on the other. Those two incredible ranges host rare highland critters, hardy alpine flora, and — here's the kicker — over 60 miles of marked hiking paths.
Certain parts of said paths can help you truly appreciate shimmering Llyn Idwal from all angles. Perhaps the most famous hike for that is the ascent of Glyder Fawr via an area known as the Devil's Kitchen. This forms a big gully down the massif on the south side of the lake and is named for the mist that often swirls from its top. The route skirts the lake's shore, before creeping upwards to reveal the whole glacial valley of Cwm Idwal and its ancient stone formations in all their glory.
For a real challenge — and it is a technical, graded scramble of a challenge, mind you — turn your attention to Tryfan. It's the dragon's back of a mountain east of the lake, and where a certain Edmund Hilary trained for Everest, which should give you an idea of just how tricky it can be! Even the easiest routes to the top involve some hardcore scrambling, though you'll be rewarded with 360-degree views that include Llyn Idwal and the greater Ogwen Valley spreading out below.