Between Cardiff And Wye Valley National Landscape Is A Market Town Famed For Fishing, Flowers, And River Walks

While Wales is often associated with the craggy mountains of Eryri and the cliff-ringed beaches of Pembrokeshire, there's a whole other side to the country out east. Cue the Welsh Borders, which unfold in a show of scenic, sylvan river valleys that come peppered with pretty towns worthy of picture postcards. One such town goes by the short name of Usk, which you'll find tucked alongside the meanders of its namesake river in the center of Monmouthshire County.

With thousands of years of history to its back, Usk can trace its roots to the Roman era, when it was founded as a fortress settlement. Later, it expanded around the 12th-century castle that still tops the skyline with its half-ruined towers and bulwarks. These days, though, this place is best known as one of the U.K.'s most celebrated flower towns, for its stunning setting on the Usk River, its abundant fishing opportunities, its independent shops and cafes — the list goes on. It's not for nothing that The Times recently listed it among the top places to live in Britain.

Usk is neatly placed in between the big city of Cardiff and the Wye Valley National Landscape, a world of forest-fringed waterways and haunting abbey ruins. That makes it a perfect addition to a road trip itinerary through eastern Wales, since it sits just a 50-minute drive from Cardiff Airport (CWL), the sole international airport in Wales. Alternatively, it also takes about 50 minutes to drive from Bristol Airport (BRS) in England. Local buses also serve Usk from the nearby city of Newport, taking just over 30 minutes in all.

Usk is an enchanting little spot. The center, which is now a conservation area in its own right, is all historic cobbled lanes, stoop Welsh cottages, and alleys that weave around the shell of the old Norman Castle. On top of that, the local authorities know how to put on a flower show, for Usk has won not one, not two, but 38 consecutive Wales in Bloom awards. Come June, a series of private gardens around town are opened to the public, while huge planting boxes come to life under the charming clock tower of Twyn Square, one of the main gathering points in downtown Usk. 

When you're finally done gawping at the fantastic flora, there's ample opportunity for retail therapy in these parts, too. A real hodgepodge of independent stores and artisan eateries fills the heart of Usk, with many of the most enticing locations peppering Bridge Street. That's home to Blue Llama Vinyl Records, purveyors of rare indie LPs from the '90s. And it's where you'll find Lines Taproom And Noddfa, where local craft ales and keg beer flow.

Then, of course, there's the Usk market — sorry, markets. Truth is, markets of all shapes and sizes have been happening here since the Middle Ages, and that tradition is still alive and well thanks to the weekly Thursday gathering of egg sellers, chutney makers, and more. It runs from March through to December. But there's also now a bi-monthly farmers market to boot, bringing together sourdough bakers and cheese mongers in a bazaar that's sure to get the taste buds ticking over.

While the quaint village of Beddgelert sits near Wales' tallest mountain, and charming Solva sits within the coastal haven of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Usk is perhaps defined most by its river. The River Usk, which doglegs around the town center on its eastern side, runs for over 70 miles to the north and south of here. It beckons with adventure aplenty, whether that's riverside walking paths and hiking in the surrounding valleys, or some of the country's best fishing.

Talking of fishing, salmon and brown trout take center stage here. A 2-mile stretch of the river within the town is a great place to start. Not only is it easy to access, but it has multiple stony sections that lend themselves to wading. From there, you could break out to the north, where another fishing beat known as Chainbridge has pools rich in Welsh salmon. Ensure you bag an official Rod License and all the correct local permits, available from The Fishing Passport, before you head out in these parts.

If walking is more your thing, then lace up the boots. Usk is the anchor of the greater Usk Valley Walk, a 48-mile route that links up the whole region, going through lush hills and past riverside taverns as it goes, mainly following the course of the river. That can eventually take you all the way to the charming medieval town of Abergavenny, which itself sits on the cusp of the stunning wild beauty of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, a land of soaring peaks and rushing waterfalls laden with oodles more great hikes.