Between Richmond And Norfolk Is Virginia's 'Wonder City' With Riverfront Dining And Historic Charm
Richmond, sometimes called "River City" for its location along the James, is about 90 minutes to two hours northwest of Norfolk, home to an active naval base. Depending on the route you choose, there are worthwhile detours along the way, including Newport News on the Virginia Peninsula, and Hopewell, a riverfront city southeast of Richmond at the confluence of the James and Appomattox rivers. If you plump for the latter, you'll find there is a lot to enjoy in the so-called "Wonder City."
The area saw its first European settlers as far back as the 1600s, and was also the site of a skirmish during the Revolutionary War. The settlement witnessed significant action during the Civil War, and was a major Union supply port and the headquarters of General Ulysses S. Grant during the Siege of Petersburg. Over the years, the city has recovered from numerous setbacks, most notably a major fire in 1915 that devastated the city, destroying hundreds of buildings. However, Hopewell has always found a way back, and the nickname "Wonder City" speaks to its resilience.
Downtown, you'll find old-fashioned theaters and a scenic riverwalk that appeal to locals and tourists alike, and there are accommodation options ranging from private rentals to local hotels, making it an excellent overnight option on a trip through southeastern Virginia. If you're looking to fly in, Richmond International Airport (RIC) is the closest option, with the airport located around 18 miles away.
Where to eat and drink in Hopewell
Hopewell sits on the banks of the James River, which flows into the Chesapeake Bay. Unsurprisingly, this means there's plenty of seafood in the area. Several restaurants in and around Hopewell serve up seafood with views of the surrounding rivers, a charming setting for everything from a romantic meal to a solo feast. The Boathouse at City Point is located in the oldest part of town and serves crab cake sandwiches, boiled seafood platters, and beer-battered fish & chips, with patio dining overlooking the James and Appomattox Rivers. The Boathouse has accumulated thousands of glowing Google Maps reviews, many of which highlight the outdoor seating, gorgeous views, and Southern comfort food. One enthusiastic review summed it all up, saying that "The service was phenomenal, the food was absolutely delicious, and the waterfront view created the perfect atmosphere for a relaxing and memorable evening."
For something away from the water, Good Ship Brewing & Eatery is Hopewell's first brewery, and it does exactly what the name suggests. The welcoming spot pairs craft beer brewed in-house with a menu of locally inspired dishes, including wood-fired pizza, and live music adds to the atmosphere on select nights, making this a lively place to unwind in the Wonder City. However, if you're after a taste of Southern comfort food, head to Saucy's Sit-Down Bar.B.Q., a casual spot serving smoked meats and hearty sides.
The history of the Wonder City
Although many of Hopewell's commercial buildings burned down in the fire of 1915, there are still centuries-old properties in the area. Visitors can tour the 18th-century Weston Manor, which is maintained by the Historic Hopewell Foundation. The former plantation house served as Union General Philip Sheridan's headquarters during the Civil War (according to the National Park Service), and it retains much of its original woodwork and interior detailing. One review on Tripadvisor added that "The fireplaces and craftsmanship around them [are] exquisite, while the dark wood, brick, and low ceilings in the cellar remind you of an old English tavern." Guided tours run from April 1 to December 15, Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Adult tickets are $8 each.
City Point, Hopewell's oldest neighborhood, is also home to the City Point Open Air Museum. The museum brings together dozens of historic sites, including General Grant's former headquarters at Appomattox Manor and St. John's Episcopal Church, which has stood here since the 1840s.
Downtown Hopewell's historic district reflects the city's rebuilding after the fire. Here, you'll find the Beacon Theatre, an early 20th-century landmark with Art Deco and Colonial Revival details that hosts live performances, alongside 1920s-era office buildings and the Hopewell Municipal Building, distinguished by its imposing stone columns. More than a century after the fire of 1915, the Wonder City's historic buildings remain woven into the fabric of a city that has repeatedly rebuilt itself.