5:30 P.M. Right now at the port, those flocks of cruise-goers, laden with designer labels and crowned with caps from Hard Rock Cafe, are heading to their staterooms. The countdown to leave Aruba has begun for me also, but I wave the thought off. I feel a little smug for exploring the island on my own and finding this elegant spot. "Anything else for you, sir?" Jose asks, his hospitality never flagging. Riding in the desert, sailing in the surf, dining a world removed from the cruise buffet, and we still have time for one more drink.