Rick Steves Reveals How To Enjoy The Popular Greek Island Of Crete Without Disappointing 'Swarms' Of Crowds
Though Crete is a quintessential getaway of sun, food, and beaches, Greece's largest island unfortunately succumbs to overcrowding — and that's not exactly the most idyllic set-up for a peaceful vacation. Travel pro Rick Steves knows this predicament well. "Swarms of tourists flock to the Greek island of Crete," he writes on his website. "Many leave, disappointed by the crowds." Steves, whose top travel tips have always been a globe-trotter's North Star, shares a crowd-avoidance strategy that involves hiking shoes instead of swimsuits: a day's hike through the Gorge of Samaria. An overnight boat from Athens takes you to the northern Cretan prefecture Hania (Chania), Steves' suggested starting and end point for this stunning 10-mile hike that reveals rich landscapes, deserted farmhouses, Cretan wildlife, and the spectacular cliffs and rocks.
Being one of the best Greek islands to visit during the summer, the gorge — open from May to October — can get its fair share of foot traffic during the summer. To beat the crowds and the heat, Steves suggests an early start. The first bus departing at 5 a.m. for Xyloskalo will have you at the hike's starting point for Gorge of Samaria's 7 a.m. opening. This allows you to begin the challenging hike while "the air is crisp, the fresh blue sky is cool, and most of the gorge has yet to see the sun," according to Steves.
By midday there may be more hikers along the route, so for even more solitude Steves advises taking a picnic break by the stream at the gorge's floor or along its side to strategically let the other hikers overtake you. This gives you the renewed energy — and lighter backpack — to tackle the remaining eight miles of the trek, which culminates at the coastal village of Agia Roumeli.
What to expect when hiking the Gorge de Samaria
Though the hike presents itself as a steady downhill from an altitude of 4,035 feet, it is still a physically challenging activity that starts with a steep descent that gradually levels into more navigable terrain once you reach the stream. Depending on your fitness level and resting periods between walking, the entire trek can take from five to eight hours to complete. At the halfway point, the pathway narrows down to three yards, snaking its way between two soaring 1,000-foot-high walls of rock. This portion of the trek, dubbed Portes or Iron Gates, is "the narrowest (and most photographed) point in the gorge," according to Steves. Besides a smattering of now-abandoned settlements, farmhouse structures, and park warden houses, you'll encounter a cornucopia of plants and may spot curious mountain goats.
The hike ends at Asia Roumeli, where a ferry boat is the only way out of the village (unless you're willing to face an arduous uphill hike back to your starting point). Steves advises, "Before your hike, confirm when the last boat leaves so you can pace yourself." The ferry boat departs three to six times a day for Chora Sfakion, from where you can board a bus for a return trip to Hania, relishing in the memories of your day's tranquil, crowd-free hike.
The beautiful views don't stop after the gorge — even the trip back to Hania reveals breathtaking views. According to Steves, you'll get glimpses of gorgeous beaches on the boat ride to Chora Sfakion, as well as "dramatic scenery and several untouched villages inhabited by high-booted, long-mustachioed, espresso-drinking Cretans" on the bus ride back.