Utah's Canyon On The Green River Offers One Of The Best Wilderness Adventure Vacations For Families
Some of the nation's most beautiful, rewarding destinations hide behind appalling names. Behold Dead Horse Point, which sounds like a location for a horror film but is actually an underrated Utah State Park with iconic views that are like the Grand Canyon but with no crowds. Or the devilish yet gorgeous Hells Canyon, a forbidding and remote wilderness adventure ... whose landscape is carved by the equally diabolical-sounding Snake River. Add Utah's Desolation Canyon to the list, a seemingly depressing destination that actually offers one of the best wilderness adventure vacations for families.
The canyon's name becomes understandable when you first encounter its imposing, harsh presence; "Happy Sunshine Smiley Rainbow Canyon" clearly wasn't an option, though regulars often shorten the name to "Deso." It's the stark environment, well removed from civilization, that gives Desolation Canyon its charm. The same erosive forces that gouged the Earth's surface also helped create epic rapids and sun-warmed sandbars that encourage days of barefoot living, with ample light during the day and crystal-clear skies at night.
The name is also a misnomer. The canyon has been many things throughout its history, but desolate isn't one of them. Even short hikes just off the river reveal pictographs and petroglyphs left behind by the various tribes that have called Desolation Canyon home over the centuries. Black bears, bighorn sheep, and a whole host of wildlife live there as well. Famous American outlaws such as Butch Cassidy and Josie Bassett used the canyon as a hideout. You'll experience plenty of sensations during your visit; isolation won't be one of them.
Raft down the river and overnight on the sandbars
Desolation Canyon's rapids remain its main draw. The waters rarely run too low, making any visit a potential win. The river's forgiving start, a sauntering flow at Sand Wash, builds up as you make your way along. Beginners will have time to sharpen their paddling skills along 15 miles of gently flowing waters before they reach the Green River's Class II and III rapids. Those looking for a fun trip down the river should prepare for the bug-infested put-in, where the mosquito swarms can get so bad the Bureau of Land Management installed screened cabins for overnighters.
Along the way, rafters will encounter sun-soaked sandbars that can double as campsites. The soft ground and sandy river allow for days of barefoot living. Yes, "days." Don't think you can make Desolation Canyon an eight-hour jaunt. A plodding pace along the river should account for about a week of adventure. If you're looking for a place to camp, wherever you are will do. Just skip the tents if you can, and instead sleep under a canopy of stars.
The ins and outs of visiting Desolation Canyon
Reaching the canyon requires a bit of mettle. A flight to Salt Lake City International Airport still leaves you a seven-hour drive away. Book an overnight stay in Green River to catch your breath; one of Utah's cutest riverfront cities, the city is just a short jaunt away. Since Desolation Canyon falls under the purview of the Bureau of Land Management, be sure you have your permits squared away before you visit. While you can get a permit for "Deso" any time of year, plan to visit between spring and late fall, when temperatures and water levels are optimal.
Your accommodations for the trip will be the tents and sleeping bags you bring with you. Gird yourself for the bugs and heat; bring plenty of insect spray, sunscreen, and sun shirts and hats. The weather's known to be volatile in the canyon, able to switch quickly from a peaceful day to a squall and back, so be ready to swap clothes in an instant. Also, the sediment-rich Green River makes filtration a nightmare, so bring plenty of water to drink.
The name "Desolation Canyon" implies a grim bleakness, but at this destination, it means "a welcome solitude amidst the awesomeness of nature."