Ireland's Remote Under-The Radar Island Is An Authentic Rugged Paradise Full Of Wildlife And Adventure
When mapping out my road trip along the southwestern coast of Ireland, I knew I couldn't pass up iconic destinations like the majestic Killarney National Park or the indomitable Cliffs of Moher. But even in mid-April, I figured I would be facing some crowds at these highly popular tourist hotspots, which is why I looked for somewhere off the beaten path to end a busy week of sightseeing. Cape Clear promised to be a place where time moved slowly, so it seemed like the perfect option to savor the end of my trip.
As part of the Gaeltacht Islands, Cape Clear is a serene locale, home to a tiny population of fewer than 200 people. The pastoral island is surrounded by dolphin-filled waters and is one of the few places in Ireland where Irish, or Gaelic, is still commonly spoken. The island attracts the most visitors in the summer, when more businesses are open (many restaurants and attractions were closed during my off-season visit), but year-round, this is a mellow destination where the simplicity of a long seaside walk may prove to be the perfect place to, well, clear your mind.
Here's everything Cape Clear has to offer, should you decide to add your own detour to this remote gem, from festivals celebrating the Irish language to visiting one of Ireland's most iconic lighthouses — plus some tips on how to visit as either a day trip or an overnight stay.
Things to do in Cape Clear
If you've been to other offshore destinations in Ireland, like the enchanting and rugged Aran Islands near Galway, you might think you know what to expect from Cape Clear. But bear in mind that, at just three miles long, the island is quite small and can be easily done in a single day. In the summer, you can also tack on a kayak tour or a visit with farm animals. To see the island at its most lively (and most chatty), visit during the Storytelling Festival in September, a celebration of the Irish tradition of storytelling and language. When you get off the ferry, you'll find a map that highlights several walking routes that take you along scenic paths from which you can admire Fastnet Rock, a remarkable local landmark with a lot of meaning.
The rock stands out from the horizon thanks to the 180-foot-tall lighthouse built on top of it, which is also known by another name, Ireland's Teardrop. For Irish immigrants, this was the last sight of home before crossing the Atlantic to start new lives in the United States. As the southernmost point of Ireland, it's also an important landmark in the Rolex Fastnet Race, one of the world's most difficult yachting competitions. For a closer look, Cape Clear Ferries offers day tours that stop for a few hours on the island.
How to get to Cape Clear and where to eat and stay
You will find the access point to Cape Clear along Ireland's notoriously long route known as the Wild Atlantic Way in the picturesque town of Baltimore, 57 miles west of Cork. There aren't many accommodations on the island itself, so I opted to stay on the mainland at the charming and locally-owned Channel View Bed and Breakfast. From Baltimore, it was easy to book a round-trip ticket with Cape Clear Ferries and return in the evening to enjoy a deliciously fresh seafood dinner at Casey's, a restaurant and hotel that offers another lovely angle of the channel from its terrace.
If you decide that you'd like to spend the night on Cape Clear, Ard na Gaoithe is a small bed and breakfast about 20 minutes' walking distance from the port. You can also bring a tent or indulge in some glamping, as Chléire Haven has yurts and bell tents available on their lovely perch. The port is the center of activity on Cape Clear and is where you will find all the pubs and restaurants, but beware that service will be limited outside of the high season.