Hidden In One Of France's Most Underrated Wine Regions Is A Medieval Town With An Ancient Market Hall

France's underrated Loire Valley sometimes plays third or even fourth fiddle to the more prestigious wine regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne. With its unassuming vibe, however, the Loire Valley calls specifically to savvy wine travelers. Not only are its wines wonderfully diverse, ranging from crisp white wines in coastal Muscadet to robust Cabernet Francs and honeyed dessert wines in the Central Loire, but the Loire Valley is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famed for its stunning architecture. In the Loire's western corridor, Clisson is an off-the-beaten-path, medieval village, ideal for those who crave a memorable Loire Valley experience but who also live for hidden gems that bring a big dose of the unexpected.

Just a 30-minute train ride from Nantes, a gorgeous French city similar to Paris but with more edge and fewer crowds, Clisson is perfect for a day trip, or to settle into for a more low-key, authentic experience in the hidden heartland of the Loire Valley. In addition to quaffing some excellent Muscadet — the village of Clisson even has a cru named for it — visitors can expect staggering scenery, an ancient market hall that still bustles with bi-weekly trading, and even a heavy metal music festival. What's that now? Read on for a primer about the very medieval, very metal village of Clisson.

Eye-popping architecture and an ancient market hall

In Clisson, the architecture immediately beckons. Perched on a hill overlooking the Sèvre Nantaise river, the Château de Clisson is a ruined, 12th-century castle and fortress that dominates the landscape. With visitation available most days between February and December, climbing the steps to the Château and wandering its ravaged, exposed chambers feels like stepping into an ancient history book, with both guided and self-guided tours available for those interested. Admission is only about $3.50 at the time of writing for a self-guided tour, or $7 to join a guided tour given in French. Children under the age of 14 may visit for free.

Adjacent to the Château is Les Halles, Clisson's ancient, covered market hall housed in a wooden structure dating back to the 14th century. Under the shadow of the Château, as well as the tower of the Église Notre-Dame, the market bustles with myriad grocery and prepared food vendors on Tuesdays and Fridays year-round.

The Loire Valley also has no shortage of restored palaces, such as Château de Chenonceau, France's famous fairytale castle with breathtaking gardens, priceless art, and wine tasting. Also in Clisson, however, is a small but significant taste of Italian architecture. Situated on the opposite side of the river from the medieval Château de Clisson, La Garenne Lemot Estate is a Tuscan-style villa realized by Napoleon's sculptor, and complete with a sculpture park on its 32-acre grounds. Admission to the park and to admire the villa's exterior is free throughout the year.

How and when to visit Clisson for an unexpectedly metal experience

Somewhat contrary to Clisson's postcard-perfect image as a quaint, medieval destination, the town also hosts one of Europe's largest annual heavy metal festivals: Hellfest. Taking place in late June, Hellfest draws nearly 60,000 visitors to Clisson to see over 180 bands, with the festival grounds located on the northern boundary of the town. 

Whether you time your visit to Clisson for Hellfest or to avoid it, you might want to consider bringing back some Hellfest-branded Muscadet. Better yet, you can conveniently find some at the Nantes Vineyards Tourist Office located in Clisson. If you do bring back a bottle or two, make sure to check out this clever way to fly home from your vacation with a case of wine to avoid any accidents.

Clisson is accessible via several daily trains from Nantes, with direct trains taking between 15 and 30 minutes. Alternatively, Nantes Atlantique is the closest airport, serviced by multiple European and North African airlines. Once in Clisson, the small city is largely walkable, even to Hellfest and back.

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