Situated Between Rome And Naples Is Italy's Archipelago Offering An Affordable Island Vacation Destination

How the Pontine islands stay such a well-kept Italian secret: They nestle in the Gulf of Gaeta, tucked in a corner of the Tyrrhenian Sea, lounging in the umbra of nearby Capri's blinding glitz. But forget Capri, one of Italy's most popular islands that's actually full of tourist traps (according to Rick Steves). The archipelago, situated 30 miles off the coast between Rome and Naples, is where residents of those cities escape to for an affordable island vacation, whether at the peak of summer or off-season. Ponzese life flows at its own pace, unbothered by mainland hustles, once so insular that when dictator Benito Mussolini was imprisoned on the largest island, Ponza, islanders apparently didn't know who he was. The breathtaking scenery, scintillating activities, hyper-local eating, and inviting accommodations, all at prices lower than most touristed islands, make the Pontines one of the best value destinations in the "bel paese."

It's easy to see why the Pontines are called everything from "Pearls of the Mediterranean" to the "Romans' Bahamas." Formed by volcanic activity 4 million years ago, they're picturesquely preserved in pristine azure waters, silky white sands and black lava ash beaches moor this string of six islands against dramatic landscapes. They're also home to a charismatic cast of wildlife, nautical critters, and native flora. They're mythicized in infamy as where the beguiling siren Circe bewitched Odysseus, but also have intriguing vignettes of Italy's history etched in their rustic terrain.

The main island, Ponza, is no more than three hours from either Rome or Naples, which makes the Pontines an accessible detour destination. Only the islands of Ponza and Ventotene are inhabited, easy bases for exploring the archipelago, but visitors should keep in mind that very few (if any) locals speak English. Accommodations are typically bucolic, family-owned villas, all at least half a century old as no new construction has been allowed since 1967.

Pulling into Ponza's port is like swooning into the sea salt-laced embrace of one of Italy's prettiest islands, a lesser-known gem full of multi-colored homes. Frontone is the life of the beach party, where nothing beams hot Italian summer like splashing in crystalline waters, lemon sorbets, all-day aperitivo, and evening DJs. Otherwise, rent a kayak, catamaran, or some other seafarer and cruise from one pot to another. There's Fèola Cove and its white tuff cliffs looming over wading pools, Lucia Rosa's sensational rock formations and magnificent sunsets, and Grotte di Pilato, where you can swim in a labyrinth of former Roman eel cisterns. Head to Felce Cove and smear on its therapeutic seawater-soaked sulfur, as locals do. Ponza's historic center is as ritzy as the Pontines get with boutiques, crafts studios, and two Michelin-acclaimed restaurants where you might rub shoulders with celebrities. Farther afield, explore abandoned hillside villas from the Bourbon dynasty, and hike up Monte Guardia, Ponza's highest point with stunning panoramic vistas.

There's a completely different air about Ventotene, with its 2,000-year-old port dug out of volcanic tuff, sparsely populated with just 700 residents across 2 miles, no cars, and some of Italy's most spectacular scuba diving sites. In this Marine Protected Area, explore sunken remnants of ancient Roman ships, a colorful underwater universe where enormous groupers and sea breams frolic with eels, squid, and many more creatures amid the sea sponges and limestone reefs. On land, Il Semaforo is the country's only bird migration museum with a perfect vantage for watching almost 200 species of birds migrating between Europe and Africa. Ventotene was also where exiles were once held. In the main square, a plaque commemorates the 1941 Manifesto of Ventotene, written by jailed anti-Fascist activists, the founding document of the European Union.

From Ponza and Ventotene, join a boat tour and discover myriads more tranquil inlets and unspoiled geological nooks around the Pontine archipelago. Legendary oceanographer Jacques Costeau called Palmarola "the most beautiful island in the Mediterranean Sea," while Zannone is an untouched oasis of wild goats grazing on clifftops, soundtracked by the call of shearwater birds that legend depicts as the wailing of the sirens.

Pontine cuisine is one of Italy's most enduring culinary traditions, a style of cooking that transforms the freshest of the waters and terroir into simple yet delectable dishes only found on these islands. From the languid tranquility of the Tyrrhenian, dig into paccheri alla Nostromo (large tubular pasta with shellfish, eggplant, and pecorino cheese), barracuda-stuffed ravioli, spaghetti with crab, and linguine with lobster. From the fertile Mediterranean terroir, lentils inflected with hints of brine are enjoyed in soup, often with basil, octopus, and other seafood. Rabbit Ponzese style (with bay leaves, cherry tomatoes, herbs, and wine), is also a surprising specialty. Since Roman times, the terraced vineyards of Monte Guardia have produced Fieno, vibrantly fruity whites and pleasantly fragrant reds exuding the floral minerality of Ponza's volcanic-limestone soil. Linger over moonshines of fennel liqueur and mulberry digestivo while your convivial hosts regale with Pontine tales, such as when a trattoria turned the late Fiat tycoon Gianni Agnelli away because it was full.

It's this taste for quaint, low-key simplicity, found on the most beautiful, lesser-visited Italian islands, over upscale resort destinations that's inspired fashion icon and 30-year Pontine frequenter Anna Fendi to observe, "The people here don't want outsiders unless they live the island style of life. They hate rich people with yachts. They don't want to change for them. It's the only place in the last thirty years that has stayed the same," according to Ponza.com.