One Of The World's Best Green Retreats Offers A Giant Thermal Pool And Vibrant Gardens In The Azores

As worldwide climates continue to shift, sustainable travel and ecotourism are trending in tandem. And while eco-friendly travel can cost a fortune, it's a relief to note that many affordable locations have opened their doors to this market. Portugal's Azores, set far out in the Atlantic, are some of the best warm-weather European islands for a budget-friendly vacation, and they're full of lush escapes that co-exist with the archipelago's rich natural environment. In fact, Condé Nast has recognized one such Azorean stay as the "Best Countryside Hotel" in all of Europe and the Mediterranean, not just once but four times since 2017: the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel.

Some may claim Terceira is the most gorgeous island in the Azores archipelago, but the largest, São Miguel, has the most geothermal activity — including geysers, fumaroles, and hot springs. Back in 1782, an American merchant named Thomas Hickling heard wind of the healing power of thermal waters that bubbled near a town called Furnas and came to make use of them himself. So besotted was he with the natural beauty of the Azores and the rejuvenating warmth of the springs that he purchased the property himself, determined to make it a beautiful, inclusive space where anyone could come to bathe and to heal.

In the nearly 250 years since Hickling first began working on his estate, it has developed and expanded, transforming into a sprawling 30-acre ornamental garden centered around an enormous public bath fed by the volcanic hot springs of Furnas. In 1935, the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel became the first hotel to open in the Azores, designed with enchanting Art Deco and Naturalism accents. And while it might sound like an indulgent stay, with rooms starting at $169 per night (€145 as of this publication), it's an affordable luxury.

Terra Nostra Park deserves a spot on the list of most luxurious and scenic destinations to soak in hot springs. Both its pools and gardens have been called out time and again by National Geographic, lauding soaks there as "romantic" and the park as "one of Europe's most beautiful botanical gardens." In addition to the iconic main pool, whose orange-tinged waters run thick with calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, silica, and iron, the park features two smaller baths fed by jets with clean filtered water from the same spring. Volcanic activity heats all three, and they're maintained at around 100 to 108 degrees Fahrenheit. And while guests of the hotel have unlimited free access, the baths are also open to the public from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. for just $20 (€17) every day of the year except Christmas.

The sculpted and natural gardens now surrounding the pool have amassed 1,800 native and exotic botanical species, in addition to a mix of colorful European and South American birdlife. Individual collections highlight special flora, including feather-like ferns, spiked bromeliads, primordial cycads, and natives of the Azorean rainforest. The award-winning collection of camellias features sumptuous blossoms in every possible hue throughout the year (since varieties of this painterly flower bloom in different seasons). Let nature stun you post-soak while wandering along winding, shady paths. At the same time, admire architectural gems caught in their web, like the Botania Hall residence and moss-laden Sugar Bowl Gazebo, revealing influences of German Romantic and neo-Baroque design.

If for no other reason than gaining 24-hour access to the pools and gardens, an overnight stay at Terra Nostra's onsite accommodation is highly recommended. The hotel features modern design elements that complement the building's original Art Deco construction, complementing streamlined geometric shapes with rich hues of plum and gold. There's also a spa with more naturally heated pools, and reading and games rooms — the types of luxurious spaces you'd expect in a mansion. The pools, garden, and hotel are accessible to children and adults of all ages.

The property has one food truck, a sushi bar, and two restaurants — one, a peaceful garden terrace, and the other, a first-class dining room. The chef's specialty, "Furnas' cozido," is a contemporary take on a traditional Azorean dish cooked underground using volcanic heat. The Japanese omakase experience curates fresh Azorean fish dishes that look as pretty as bouquets. Each kitchen and bar incorporates herbs and flowers from the Terra Nostra collections, making this a garden-to-table experience.

The best time to visit Terra Nostra Park, and indeed all of the Azores, is up for debate, but you really can't go wrong in any month, and your choice should be dependent on what else you'd like to get out of your trip. While shoulder seasons tend to have mild weather and manageable crowds, summers are best for beach time and whale-watching (though this is high tourist season), and winters — despite turbulent weather — are ideal for hot spring bathing since they're quiet without being too chilly. São Miguel's João Paulo II Airport (PDL) in Ponta Delgada has direct flights from Lisbon and international hubs, including Boston, New York, Toronto, and many European capital cities. From there, the hotel is a mere 45-minute drive east.