One Of The Midwest's Prettiest Scenic Byways Shows Off The Region's Covered Bridges, Trails, And Architecture
You may be familiar with this 82-mile byway from the novel-turned-film "The Bridges of Madison County." The love story, inspired by the Covered Bridges Scenic Byway, transformed this Iowan road into one of the Midwest's must-experience trips. Connecting the towns of St. Charles, Bevington, and Winterset – a small city with a love for small businesses – the byway makes for an easy road trip with plenty of opportunities to step off the road to enjoy local sights and activities. Think of it as a starting point for a look into the history of Iowa and the Midwest through historical landmarks, architectural marvels, including the aforementioned bridges, and hiking trails in nearby parks.
The most straightforward way to access the Covered Bridges Scenic Byway is to drive from Des Moines toward Winterset. The drive is about 40 minutes, taking you through one of the branches of the byway once you start to go south. Alternatively, if you're already crossing the Great Western Bike Trail, you'll come across Cumming Avenue, which you can take west to ride through to another branch of the byway, Cumming Road. The byway is a great one-day road trip idea if you're coming from visiting and trying Madrid's gardens, trails, parks, and mouth-watering wine, located about an hour's drive from Winterset.
History and architecture meet nature along Iowa's Covered Bridges Scenic Byway
The covered bridges serve as architectural odes to the past and hold a special place in the hearts of Iowans. There were originally at least 19 bridges along the road, all built in the second half of the 19th century. At the time, wood was the primary material for all construction projects, and covers helped maintain the structure longer, protecting it from the elements.
These beloved bridges are celebrated yearly in mid-October during the Madison County Covered Bridge Festival. Held for the first time back in 1970, this local celebration invites residents and visitors alike to enjoy food and entertainment, as well as join guided tours of the six remaining bridges. Tours are the best way to learn more about the unique architectural features of the covered bridges, such as the flat roofs, a signature design element attributed to bridge builder Harvey P. Jones. Alternatively, see the bridges on your own time, but keep in mind that most of the famous covered bridges can only be crossed on foot or by bicycle, off the actual byway. You'll need to detour into smaller streets and use the available parking areas if you're traveling by car.
Much of the road will reward you with views of Iowa valleys and farmlands, but some branches also lead travelers to hiking trails and nature spots. South of Winterset, you can access Pammel State Park, one of Iowa's first state parks. The 350-acre park is home to some of the state's oldest oak trees and five miles of trails that take you around the park's different ecosystems and landmarks. Of note is the Harmon Tunnel, Iowa's only highway tunnel with a history that dates back over 160 years, and the Pammel Park Spillway (pictured).
See first-hand the sights of deep American history
Along or near the byway, you'll come across historical locations that provide insights into American history and culture, starting with an homage to Golden Age-cinema actor and local legend John Wayne. Born and raised in Winterset, learn about the actor's extensive career and impact on the Western genre through the John Wayne Birthplace & Museum's collection of memorabilia. Pro tip: Silver screen lovers should head to Washington, Iowa, home to the oldest operating movie theater in the world, for a true, retro theater experience.
For a glimpse at wartime history, check out Monumental Park, where one of the earliest Civil War monuments erected in the state stands surrounded by four 19th-century cannons in excellent condition. The Madison County Courthouse is also worth a visit. The current iteration was built in 1878, designed by the French architect Alfred H. Piquenard. While the building does serve as a courthouse in everyday life, visitors can sign up for a tour on weekdays.
Iowa isn't only the home of past heroes and centuries-old buildings. A newer event that's been attracting a younger crowd is the Hinterland Music Festival, which livens up St. Charles with music. Held for the first time in 2015, the event hosts major and up-and-coming artists. Past headliners include Hozier, Bon Iver, and Phoebe Bridgers. Unlike other music festivals in the country, Hinterland only has one main stage, which allows for a slower, more laid-back experience.