Situated Between Dublin And Belfast Is Ireland's Windswept Coastal Town With Sea Cliffs And Authentic Irish Pubs
On the island country known for scenic cliff sides and historic ruins, there's a small town in the northernmost part of Ireland that's loaded with medieval history, leprechaun lore, sea views, and plenty of pubs to warrant a visit. Carlingford, located on the Cooley Peninsula, is just about 10 minutes from the border of Northern Ireland. Situated between the major cities of Dublin and Belfast, it's a fascinating part of Ireland to add to any road trip itinerary.
Located about two hours north of Dublin, Carlingford is a coastal town that dates back to the 12th century. Nestled at the foot of the Slieve Foye Mountain, small streets and narrow lanes give away the town's medieval past. With sea cliffs lining the shore, the heart of the town is located right on the waterfront, in and around all of the ruins that maintain their dedicated space. This small town in Ireland's "Ancient East" is full of history and legends that defy all logic and rational thinking.
Carlingford is about equidistant between both the Dublin (DUB) and Belfast (BFS) international airports, each a drive of about an hour and 20 minutes away. The easiest way to get to Carlingford is to drive. If you're driving up from Dublin, stop in Dundalk, a historical town heavy on Irish culture, nature parks, and horse races. On the way to Carlingford, it's worth a visit to see Dundalk Bay or catch a horse race. If you start your journey in Belfast, make sure to check out St. George's, the city's hidden but lively market that is loaded with street food and other goodies. Regardless which direction you come from, you'll enjoy sweeping coastal views on one side and lush, green mountain views on the other.
Leprechauns, ruins, and castles in Carlingford
The luck of the Irish is legendary, as is their belief in leprechauns. And the leprechaun game in Carlingford is strong. So strong, in fact, that apparently "The Last Leprechaun Whisperer" lives there and works diligently to protect the 236 leprechauns that remain. The story goes that in 1989, a fellow by the name of PJ O'Hare found the remnants of a leprechaun, and a bag containing four gold coins. Nobody believed him, including his friend Kevin Woods, until two years later when three leprechauns appeared to Woods himself. Ever since then, Woods has been raising awareness of their history, as well as their plight. To hear the rest of the story, you'll have to visit the Leprechaun Cavern in Folklore Park to hear the tales firsthand, while walking the tunnels to decide if you believe in the magical little people who still roam the land.
For a bit of outdoor exercise, do the Táin Way, a 26-mile circular hike around Louth County's highest peak. Depart from Carlingford and immerse yourself in woodlands, mountains, and stellar ocean views. Completing the loop will take two days, but there are some great little places to stay overnight along the way. From the hike, you'll be afforded with breathtaking panoramic views looking out over Carlingford Lough, Dundalk Bay, and stretching down the Eastern coast of Ireland.
Carlington Castle, or what remains of it, is the largest historical landmark, located on the waterfront. Dating back to the 12th century, visitors can take a guided tour that lasts about an hour. Tours run from April through the end of October. For a driving tour of the area, drive Cooley Peninsula for views of Carlingford Lough shores, Dundalk Bay, and the Tholsel landmark, the last remaining gate into the formerly walled city.
Where to eat, drink, and stay in Carlingford
In between all the sightseeing, make time to indulge in the local dining scene. Start your mornings in Carlingford by fueling up on coffee at Artebrano, a spot that is part coffee house, part art studio, and the food and drinks look like works of art. Ruby Ellen's Tea Rooms is exactly what you would envision in a traditional tea house: a cozy spot full of flowery china, lacy table cloths, and pops of purple decor inside and out. Sweet Sundaes is a sugar-lover's dream with walls of candy and rows of ice cream to choose from.
For a quintessential gastropub experience, head to PJ O'Hares, known locally as PJ's. It started as a family-owned grocer in 1860 and evolved into a pub where the Guinness flows freely and weather permitting, visitors hang in the charming beer garden courtyard. A few minutes down the road, Wildwood Street Food Box, located right on the waterfront, is the complete opposite of a gastropub. Inspired by nature, this local favorite is a haven for food rooted in nutrition. They also sell products like healing balms, made from natural ingredients. Just outside of town, the Carlingford Brewing Company is a small, independent brewery making craft brews in a 14th century mill. The gorgeous property is great for terrace dining on wood-fired pizzas or for private event rentals.
As for places to stay, the stunning Carlingford House overlooks the ruins of the Carlingford Dominican Friary, church ruins that date back to 1305, where you can wander the limestone blocks that remain. If you're a golf aficionado, you're in luck as there are three courses nearby. Grove House Carlingford is a charming bed and breakfast and the Oystercatcher Lodge is another intimate spot right in the heart of town.