This Irish Island Is A Remote Escape With Scenic Coastal Views, Ancient Forts, And Dark Prison Cells
Echoes of harp melodies reverberate in the air, wide emerald rolling hills dot the scenery, and dramatic cliffs stand out on the horizon. Ireland's distinctive landscape draws many visitors to its ancient land, and it's no surprise that, with its utter charm, the country entered the list of Rick Steves' favorite destinations in Europe. Besides the most-visited locations, Ireland hides an off-the-beaten-path find located off the coast of Cobh in County Cork, over a three-hour train journey south of Dublin. Spike Island is a remote escape featuring coastal views, ancient strongholds, and an infamous prison.
Despite its mysterious past, the island is an unmissable location for a road trip or excursion, as you stop to wonder at its natural landscape and old sites. The island offers two scenic trails to soak in the Irish beauty: The Ring of Spike Island and the Glacis Walk. The Ring takes 35 to 45 minutes to complete and focuses on the island's history and nature, offering lovely views of its harbor, along with a medieval monastery, the 19th-century Fort Michel, and its prison cells. The latter is a 20-minute family-friendly stroll that allows you to explore the fort's history and its remnants.
Cork Harbour's first settlements date back about 9,000 years, and today it's recognized as the world's second-largest natural harbor. The view gives a glimpse of dolphins, seals, and birds flying in the sky. A military presence has been guarding the small island, with the Irish Navy having its base there. Beyond its historic meaning, the harbor is a prominent hub for transportation, receiving cruises and ferries to and from France.
Spike Island: Built to guard against external attacks and to detain prisoners
Throughout the years, Ireland has been reshaped for military purposes. Spike Island provides a perfect example of a small yet significant site, with fortresses protecting its harbor, namely Fort Mitchel, Fort Carlisle, Camden Fort Meagher, and Fort Templebreedy. The isle attracted the attention of many invaders since it offered easy access to England, with several attacks leading to the construction of the ancient fort we can visit today.
Initially constructed in the seventh century as a monastery, Fort Mitchel was later converted into a star-shaped fort in the 19th century to defend from naval assaults. In 1847, the stronghold became a prison during the Great Famine, accommodating over 2,300 inmates. Visit the Punishment Block, featuring 28 isolation cells for the most threatening prisoners, who were chained and entirely covered, excluding their eyes. The conditions in the block were unbearable, with more than 1,000 prisoners dying and being buried in collective graves. Many tried to kill themselves, which earned the island the intimidating nickname "Hell on Earth". Some prison rooms are still available to explore. The prison saw its final days of use in 2004 and is now strictly a museum. Inside the fort is the Gun Park, an artillery collection and a replica of the Battery Observation Post.
If you want to explore Spike Island, hop on the ferry tour and venture into the past, discovering Ireland's heritage through a 3.5-hour guided tour, with professionals revealing fascinating facts about Spike Island and its previous residents. An adult ticket costs €27.95, including the boat trip, at the time of writing.
Exploring Spike Island with a different perspective
Beyond the usual classic tours of the island, you can explore the isle through two special tours: After Dark and Behind the Scenes. In the former, you'll hear about the island's spooky past and ghost stories while sitting in solitary cells, whereas in the latter, you'll dive into the island's bowels through hidden tunnels that were meant to hold prisoners, and conclude the tour at the Captain's bar with a glass of rum to cool down your chills. Download the Spike Island app to have a virtual reality encounter with historical characters of the island, such as monks and Winston Churchill, or catch a glimpse of village life. Listen to prisoners and residents as they disclose details of their lives on Spike Island.
The ferry departs from Kennedy Pier in Cobh, which is about a 30-minute drive from Cork city center. Cork has its own international airport, should you be flying from abroad. However, don't limit your visit just to Spike Island — venture into the Emerald Isle, checking out the best places to visit and things to do in Ireland. Begin your trip in Dublin, a friendly European capital city packed with "urban thrills" and an "irrepressible spirit," according to Rick Steves.