Portugal's 'Big Wave Capital' Is A Captivating Coastal Town With Quaint Streets And Fresh Seafood

When you think of the world's great big-wave destinations, you likely picture Hawaii's North Shore and the hip town of Haleiwa, the "World's Surfing Capital," renowned for its beaches, art galleries, and boutiques, or California's Mavericks, just off the laid-back coastal town of Half Moon Bay, with its quiet sandy beaches, farm-to-table dining, and outdoor adventures. Yet tucked along the Portuguese coast is a place that can easily hold its own among these surfing meccas. Enter Nazaré, often referred to as the "Big Wave Capital" of the world. 

Just about or 75 miles north of Lisbon (here is everything you need to know before visiting the Portuguese capital for the first time), this once-quiet fishing village has over the last decades – and especially since American-born pro-surfer Garrett "GMAC" McNamara made history in 2011 by conquering a record-breaking 78-foot swell at Praia do Norte – transformed into a global stage for daredevil surfers. Adrenaline junkies flock from across the world to challenge the walls of water that can soar up to almost 100 feet. This natural spectacle is made possible primarily by the unique underwater Nazaré Canyon that funnels and magnifies the Atlantic's raw power, as well as by an interplay of several other environmental and topographic factors.

But Nazaré is more than a surfers' paradise. Beyond its dramatic cliffs and the high-octane RedBull TUDOR Nazaré Big Wave Challenge, this relatively small center, home to just under 15,000 permanent residents, offers everything you might expect from a quaint fishing village. Picture a vibrant historic center with sun-bleached streets, lively fish markets full of chatter and clattering crates, and — not least — family-run restaurants dishing out the freshest Atlantic seafood straight from the nets to your plate. 

Ever wondered what the Atlantic looks like when it decides to show off? Nazaré is the place to find out. The center of the action is Praia do Norte, a wide sandy stretch about a mile long, located along the northern edge of the town. From October through March — and more so during the colder months between November and February — the legendary Nazaré Canyon funnels winter swells straight toward the shore, generating colossal waves that attract big-wave surfers from across the globe. This is unquestionably the best time of year to visit if you are a fan of the sport, with the bonus that the town is far quieter than during the crowded summer months. However, keep in mind that temperatures can drop to a minimum average of 46 degrees Fahrenheit, and strong oceanic winds can make it feel even colder. 

If you are not planning to paddle out, the cliffs of Sítio are your front-row seats for wave-watching. To get there, you can take the funicular from the central Largo do Elevador up to Sítio (or take the stairs that climb up the hill), then follow the path toward the Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, with the iconic red lighthouse perched on the roof. From here, you can even descend to the beach below via a steep dirt path.

While Praia do Norte remains strikingly beautiful both in winter and summer, it lacks the comforts of a typical bathing destination. The currents are treacherous, swimming is ill-advised, and there are no services on the sand. If you're looking for a classic beach day, Praia da Nazaré offers the perfect alternative.

Despite its growing popularity, Nazaré still feels like a little bubble where you can soak up the atmosphere of traditional Portuguese coastal life, with its small museums, lively squares, and the women in their colorful sete saias (the traditional seven overlapping skirts). Start your exploration in the upper district of Sítio, just a short 10-minute walk away from the Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, home to the Baroque Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazaré, recognizable for the two majestic bell towers. The church houses the revered statue of the Virgin Mary, allegedly carved in Nazareth — the village's namesake.

The fort itself, originally built at the end of the 16th century as a coastal defense against pirate raids, is a true gem and has been transformed into a museum, with exhibits on the formation of Nazaré's enormous waves and the surfers who have tackled them. It welcomes visitors every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. for a small fee of €2 (less than $2.50). 

Back down by the marina, food lovers are in for a treat. An array of traditional tabernas and restaurants serves up the freshest Atlantic catches, from grilled sardines to arroz de marisco (seafood rice) and caldeirada de peixe (a simple and earthy fish stew). Highly recommended — and well-rated — spots include Restaurante A Tasquinha and Restaurante Rosa Dos Ventos, two family-run classics. While not your typical seaside spot, Tabernassa is a beloved steakhouse on central Avenida da República. Don't miss the Mercado Municipal, open Tuesday to Sunday, from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. – a go-to spot for local produce, baked goods, and other artisanal delights.