Oregon's 'Land Of Extremes' Hides In A Remote Corner With Dramatic, Undisturbed Wilderness To Hike

Oregon may be synonymous with "wilderness," but the type of wilderness it offers runs the gamut from majestic redwood forests on its misty coast to snow-capped peaks of volcanic mountain ranges. Even within these unique offerings, Oregon has a place unlike anywhere else, nestled in the Siskiyou National Forest in its remote southwest corner: the Kalmiopsis Wilderness, 180,000 acres of dramatic, undisturbed land that's home to some of the world's rarest flowers, otherworldly reddish rocks, and crystal clear rivers. 

It's a place for those looking for solitude and a challenge; much of it is accessible only via hikes, and long ones at that. It's known as the "land of extremes," one that can be "inhospitable" and "almost unapproachable," but whose particular character sticks with those who get it (via High Country News). This has become even more true in recent years, since this area has been the site of three of Oregon's biggest wildfires ever, which left swaths of land burned completely.

This area is named for Kalmiopsis leachiana, a small, bright wildflower that only grows in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. It's truly a product of the land, which is known for its serpentine soil, which lacks the nutrients needed for plants and trees to grow. So, what does grow here is strong, able to withstand the high heat and sometimes desert-like conditions in a wilderness that receives 100 inches of rainfall per year in some parts, and reaches 100 degrees in others. These juxtaposing conditions create a landscape that's sometimes surreal, as if it's part of another world (or at least somewhere outside of Oregon), making the Kalmiopsis Wilderness an ideal destination for anyone looking to immerse themselves in a one-of-a-kind wilderness in a secluded location that's only an hour and a half from Grants Pass. 

As Shakespeare once put it, "What's in a name?" It's hard not to wonder with a mouthful like "Kalmiopsis," a name created by the botanist Lilla Leach, who was the first to discover the region's eponymous wildflower. Lilla and her husband, John, ventured deep into the wilderness every summer with the help of their two donkeys, and in 1930, she discovered this small, pink plant that she initially thought was a black laurel (Kalmia polifolia). She added the Greek root "-opsis," meaning "sight, appearance," to the end and thus was born the Kalmiopsis, whose evolution dates back to the Ice Age and which can only be found in this wilderness. Leach went on to discover five more rare plants that were previously unknown in Western science, so it's no surprise that plant lovers and botanists are some of the people to tackle the wilds of Kalmiopsis, which has the highest concentration of rare plants in Oregon and possibly the U.S.

The distinct landscape of Kalmiopsis dates back to the Jurassic Period, when rocks below the sea floor rose above the water earlier than elsewhere in Oregon, which was still submerged. Those rocks are identifiable by their reddish-brown tint, and although Oregon has its own otherworldly high desert, these rocks create the desert-like, moonscape feeling that marks the Kalmiopsis. This is further enhanced by the land that burned during three wildfires that occurred over the course of 16 years: the 2002 Biscuit Fire, which burned 500,000 acres, followed by the 2017 Chetco Bar Fire, and the Klondike Fire in 2018. Some areas have complete forest mortality, while others are growing back; regardless, hiking through the Kalmiopsis will bring you face-to-face with the scars of these natural disasters that have profoundly transformed this region.

While much of Kalmiopsis is difficult to access, there are a number of trails open to the public that are maintained by the Siskiyou Mountain Club. This organization was started by a couple in 2010, who found many of the trails in the wilderness blocked off and destroyed by debris from the wildfires, so they started working with volunteers to make the area accessible to those wanting to tap into one of Oregon's most untouched places. The Siskiyou Mountain Club is an essential resource for planning a hike in the Kalmiopsis, as it offers trail conditions, maps, and other safety tips for hiking in the wilderness.

For many, the most well-known and dramatic hike in Kalmiopsis is the Illinois River Trail, which stretches about 30 miles above the wild whitewater rapids of the Illinois River and includes sheer drops of thousands of feet off the cliff's edge into the river. You can find the rare Kalmiopsis flower here, which usually blooms from April to August. A good family-friendly option is the Babyfoot Lake Trail, which is 2.5 miles out-and-back to the lake, where kids can swim and play. It's more easily accessible than some of the other hikes in the wilderness, so it's also good for those who want to dip their toes into Kalmiopsis before diving in too deep. 

Siskiyou Mountain Club has cleared two long, multi-day trails that reach the Upper Chetco River, which has been described as having some of the clearest water on earth. You can check it out for yourself, either by doing the difficult 26-mile Trans-Kalmiopsis route that's suitable for experienced hikers and backpackers, or the longer 50-mile Lilla and John Leach Memorial Loop.