Canada's 'Most Notorious City' Is An Underrated Destination With Historic Sites And Outdoor Escapes
If you've got a passion for true crime and urban legends, move a small city on the Canadian Prairie up on your bucket list. Today, Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, may look like an ordinary small Canadian city; however, the city was built with genuine hard work and revived with some urban legends that have garnered the nickname of Canada's "Most Notorious City." During the 1920s, Moose Jaw looked swell on the surface, but below the streets, Moose Jaw had a hidden world. Rumor has it the city was so thick with crime and corruption that organized criminal gangs ran speakeasies and used the city's underground tunnels as a hub for bootlegging. And legend has it that Al Capone himself and his Chicago Outfit may have even spent time in Moose Jaw, and maybe had a tonsillectomy there.
Decades before Al Capone came into the picture, Moose Jaw was founded as a humble stop along the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1882. Canadian Pacific built Moose Jaw into a train depot approximately halfway between Winnipeg and Calgary, and the city gained a direct link to Chicago on the Soo Line in 1893 (supposedly, it's how Al Capone came to town). Despite the rebrand, Moose Jaw is at heart the "friendly city," with one of Canada's "coolest downtowns", per Expedia and a quick walk from hundreds of species of wildlife and soothing spas.
Though Canadian Pacific no longer serves passengers visiting Moose Jaw, the city of 35,000 is under an hour from Saskatchewan's capital, Regina. While you can fly direct to Regina from Denver and get a tasty bite to eat at America's largest airport, you'll find more domestic flights. By car, Moose Jaw is about 5 hours from Minot, North Dakota, its sister city, depending on customs.
Moose Jaw's historic tunnels and trolleys
At the heart of downtown Moose Jaw is its unique past. Whether the underground tunnels' stories are legends or historical facts, Moose Jaw will give you plenty to see and talk about during your trip. Just make sure you avoid this annoyingly common tourist behavior in Canada.
Moose Jaw's tunnels are ranked as the city's top attraction on Tripadvisor and offer three different guided trips that explore Canadian history. In addition to the local mob legends, choose from the Passage to Fortune tour taking you through the early 20th century as a Chinese immigrant to Canada, or Bunker 24, made with the Canadian military to showcase life at the height of the Cold War in a bunker. Tickets are about $18 for adults for a single tour that runs 50 minutes. Book ahead of time to get a discount on additional tunnel tickets (the total for all three tours for an adult is around $47). You can even separate the tours over multiple days.
Above ground in Canada's most "notoriously charming downtown," hop on a morning or afternoon trolley tour and see the streets glisten in the sun while learning about Moose Jaw's historic past. Or, wait 'til nightfall to hear more about the city's dark side. After the sun goes down, the skeletons come out of Moose Jaw's closet; take a true crime trolley tour to hear the nitty gritty about Moose Jaw's worst of the worst, or ride past all the local haunts on a spine-tingling ghost tour. Due to the graphic content, there is a minimum age requirement and no young children are allowed on either tour.
How to unwind in Moose Jaw
You'll lose yourself in nature exploring Moose Jaw's outdoor gem, the picturesque Wakamow Valley Parkn open year-round. Take a walk along the Moose Jaw River or float the afternoon away. Bring a hat and if you need a canoe or paddle, Moose Jaw River and Adventure Tours will have what you need, as long as there's no ice!
After exploring the great outdoors, explore more of Moose Jaw's unique past with a meal that will make history. Don't miss visiting the Hopkins Dining Parlor downtown. You'll find yourself back in the Victorian Era surrounded by charming antiques, delicious food, and maybe a few ghosts, like at this Savannah, Georgia restaurant with hearty food. Once you've had your fill, you'll find "notoriously friendly" service at some of downtown Moose Jaw's top watering holes. Rosie's on River Street has top ratings from TripAdvisor for its atmosphere and food, especially the bacon pecan pie. When you visit, don't forget to ask about the namesake! For classic British favorites and a cold beer, Bobby's Place serves up Yorkshire pudding, fish and chips, and a wide assortment of pies.
If you're looking for a weekend to escape and melt away all of your troubles, no matter how cold it is outside, the Temple Gardens Hotel and Spa is waiting. All hotel guests get free access to the soothing mineral waters and exercise classes in the hotel's pools, though recent visitors have noted that the property appears dated. Along the Trans-Canada Highway northeast of downtown, you'll find plenty of chain hotels near Moose Jaw's iconic statue of Mac the Moose, the tallest in the world, and a CT-114 Tutor, flown by the Snowbirds, the Royal Canadian Air Force demonstration team based in Moose Jaw.