A Once-Promising Caribbean Historical Destination Turns Out To Be An Utterly Disappointing Tourist Trap

Surrounded by aquamarine water in a kaleidoscope of shades, the beautiful Mexico island of Cozumel is a top Caribbean destination. Boasting an incredible array of marine life living along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, it's no wonder that Cozumel is the diving capital of Latin America that draws nearly 5 million visitors per year to soak in the sun at Cozumel's world-class all-inclusive beach clubs. While the island is an absolute treasure for its natural beauty, that doesn't mean it isn't without its tourist traps. If you want to explore Cozumel's Mayan ruins, you might find the once-promising Caribbean historical destination of El Cedral to be an utterly disappointing tourist trap.

El Cedral is located away from Cozumel's famous beaches on the southwest side of the island's lush interior. Dating back to 800 AD, it's one of Cozumel's oldest Mayan settlements. Tourists expecting an archaeological opus like Chichén Itzá will instead be greeted by a singular, dusty, and unadorned fertility temple. The discovery of a jade stone hinting at Prehispanic occupation was made here in the 1970s, but neither the stone nor other ancient structures remain. Seethes one reviewer on Tripadvisor who paid $4 to enter: "We feel scammed by the entrance fee to see nothing interesting. I don't recommend it. In 19 min [sic] we leave the village."

Today, the temple sits in a small village inhabited by local families who run a handful of shops. Another Tripadvisor reviewer, who agrees there isn't much to see, took a chance on the town's tequila shop. "Like the other poster said, we tasted amazing tequilas for the tasting but the '12 year' bottle we bought was absolutely disgusting and tasted like the cheapest, trashiest alcohol. We had to dump it." The review goes on to contend they were overcharged for their purchase. 

To make visiting El Cedral worthwhile, go during the vibrant Fiesta del Cedral, a weeklong celebration that takes place every year from the end of April through the beginning of May. The festival isn't quite as over the top as celebrating Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, but it's still a packed and vibrant tradition that locals have been celebrating uninterrupted since 1848. 

Fiesta del Cedral is rooted in the Maya caste war with the Spanish. According to tradition, a man attacked by the Maya, Casimiro Cárdenas, swore upon his crucifix that once he was safe from the uprising he would spend the rest of his life honoring the cross. Eventually, Casimiro and a group of people escaped from their native town of Sabán to settle safely on Cozumel. They founded the town of El Cedral around the ancient temple ruins and began the annual festival to honor the crucifix. For this reason the religious festival is also called the Fiesta de Santa Cruz, which in English means Festival of the Cross.

The lively festival is brimming with nonstop activities, including live concerts, Mayan rituals, folkloric dancing, horseback riding, culinary competitions with regional food, bullfights, and sporting events. One five-star review on Tripadvisor from someone who visited during the Fiesta del Cedral strikes a completely different tone than reviewers who visited at other times. "The festivities were beautiful, and the dancing was amazing." The best way to reach the festival is to take one of the shuttle buses that leave regularly from the local Chedraui supermarket. To visit El Cedral any other time of year, it's a 20-minute car, scooter, or taxi ride from downtown Cozumel.