Washington's Underrated Coastal Corner Serves Up Seafood Feasts, Windswept Hikes, And Harborfront Charm

In Washington, picturesque Seattle — named the most outdoor-friendly city for its proximity to breathtaking coastline and hiking trails– seems to get all the love from tourists. They visit the Space Needle for a ride up the new double-decker glass elevators for panoramic vistas or venture to Pike Place Market, considered the soul of Seattle for its vibrant shops, or tour the must-see guitar tower at the Museum of Pop Culture. For yet another pretty side of Washington, maybe they should consider exploring the quaint communities along the state's coastline, including the town of Ilwaco on the state's newly branded Evergreen Coast.

This port town of 1,000 lies on the state's southwest corner, offering hiking, fishing, seafood, and a thriving community filled with events and arts. Located along the Long Beach Peninsula at the mouth of the Columbia River, Ilwaco is 30 minutes north of Astoria, Oregon and three hours south of Seattle, ideal for a quick getaway. A major draw is the 8.5-mile Discovery Trail, a hiking and biking trail that runs parallel to the ocean and is studded with art installations honoring explorers Lewis and Clark. It stretches from the Port of Ilwaco to the Breakers Hotel in Long Beach, a neighboring community known for its drivable beach and international kite festival.

Originally called Unity by settlers in 1851 in celebration of the Civil War's end, Ilwaco was eventually named for the son-in-law of Chief ComComly of the Chinookan peoples. Ilwaco became a commercial hub with its timber and fishing industries until Dungeness crabbing became the area's more lucrative venture.

For a $10 day pass, a sight to behold is the Cape Disappointment State Park on the Long Beach Peninsula, and yes, it's a total misnomer. Named by British fur trader John Meares in 1788 after he couldn't find the river's mouth, the Cape is postcard-perfect with two lighthouses, views for miles, hiking trails, and vestiges of Pacific Northwest history. Hike to Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, the first built in the area in 1856, which guides sailors from the south, and make sure to stop along the way at Deadman's Cove, a quiet stretch of beach below the cliff. This region was nicknamed the "Graveyard of the Pacific" for its calamitous number of shipwrecks, so the North Head Lighthouse was also built in 1898 for those traveling from the north. It now operates by automation, but the keeper's quarters were renovated and are available for rent for cozy evenings. 

For more behind-the-scenes info, stop in the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, where paintings, murals, and photos describe the 18-month, 3,700-mile Corps of Discovery trek led by the soldiers from St. Louis to Cape Disappointment to better understand the Louisiana Purchase.  Even more history is on display at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, which offers exhibits on the Chinook Indian Nation and the area's industries, including fishing, oystering, and logging. 

Along the boardwalk at the Port of Ilwaco, you will find boats lining the 800-slip marina. You can charter a boat for salmon, albacore tuna, and bottom fishing. At the Saturday Markets, which run rain or shine May through September, you can stock up on raw honey, produce like asparagus, and wares from local artisans. Throughout the year, the town stays busy with events like art walks, exhibits, talks, music festivals, and summer music concerts. 

Surrounded by endless natural beauty, artists never want for inspiration here, and a number can be found on the boardwalk, including Don Nisbett (who focuses on acrylics, watercolors, and painting glass) and Marie Powell (a retired high school teacher who creates vibrant works using pastels, oils, and mixed media). Jeweler Luisa Mack incorporates gems such as sapphires, emeralds, and aquamarines in her silver and gold necklaces, pendants, and earrings that she sells alongside arts and ceramics crafted by local vendors. For novel finds in downtown, visit Antique Gallery, selling more than 400,000 items, such as glassware, vintage clothing, costume jewelry, and nautical items like a ship's wheel. Music enthusiasts should pop into Ship Wrecords and Moor, the peninsula's only record store, filled with vinyl, CDs, tapes, stereo equipment, and beer and cider. 

It would be a crime not to dine on seafood in this marine mecca. Smoked salmon dip, steamer clams, fish tacos, clam chowder, and smoked salmon mac 'n' cheese are just a sampling of options from the Salt Pub. Complement your craft beer with calamari, lemon-garlic prawns, dungeness crab bisque, tuna poke bowl, and fisher wives' stew with squid at the Waterline Pub. 

With full bellies, you may want to stay the night, but plan ahead when seeking lodging for a family since options aren't plentiful. You can book a room at the adults-only At the Helm, where amenities include a glass of beer or wine upon check-in, locally sourced breakfast delivered to your room, and an in-room complimentary snack basket and Nespresso coffee machine. The Salt Hotel offers single king and queen bedrooms and a handful of bunk rooms for a snug fit of two adults and two children. The more economical Heidi's Inn does offer rooms with two double beds.