Rick Steves Says This Secret Town Is Where You Get Triple The Italy For A Third Of The Price

Italy's Amalfi Coast is one of the world's most celebrated coastlines, where green mountains rise above jewel-colored villages that tumble toward a turquoise sea. With its natural beauty and rich history, the Amalfi Coast beckons travelers year after year to experience its "dolce vita" allure. While many visitors head straight to picturesque Positano, its popularity has also led to serious overcrowding and sky-high prices, especially during the summer season. With this in mind, travel expert Rick Steves set out to find what he calls on his blog an "untouristy Positano," which he discovered just 14 miles west in the under-the-radar town of Maiori.

As opposed to the costly Positano, Steves notes, "Maiori is where, for a third the price, you get triple the Italy." In fact, according to BudgetYourTrip, the average cost for a hotel in Maiori is $147 per night, while in Positano, you'll find the average nightly cost around $355. Blessed with plenty of local charm and not yet clogged with tourists, Maiori is where you can experience a more relaxed and affordable Italian vacation. While there are many stunning beaches on the Amalfi Coast, most are rocky, and only a few are sandy. Maiori fronts the Spiaggia di Maiori, which is the largest sandy stretch of beach on the coast. The town also brims with history, with centuries-old churches, lavish palaces, and historic towers to discover. 

Though it remains undiscovered for many travelers, Maiori is still easy to reach. The town is about a 70- to 90-minute drive south of Naples International Airport, depending on traffic. Ferries also connect Naples and Maiori in roughly two hours. The best time to visit Maiori is between June and September, when average temperatures hover around 81 degrees Fahrenheit, but you might want to start planning your trip as soon as possible to ensure the best deals.

Maiori's greatest natural asset is its half-mile-long sandy beach. Dotting this stretch is a seaside promenade with beach clubs where you can enjoy lunch and rent sunbeds or umbrellas for a leisurely day by the water. While you can rent two chairs and an umbrella at a Maiori beach club for less than 30 euros (about $35), you'll spend on average 80 euros (or $93) in Positano. And at Maiori's main beach, Rick Steves notes that you're likely to be surrounded by Italians who have been visiting here for generations rather than the American and British hordes common in Positano.

Another highlight of Maiori is Sentiero dei Limoni, or Path of the Lemons, a scenic 2.4-mile public walking trail that connects Maiori to nearby Minori, a seaside town that's another less-touristy Italian paradise. The route, which winds past terraces of lemon groves, was once the main thoroughfare for transporting lemons. Offering breathtaking views of both towns and the mountains falling into the sea, the path is a mix of paved road and steep steps, so wear proper footwear and stay hydrated. You can also do the hike as part of a guided tour, which includes visits to working groves and tastings of local lemon products.

Back in Maiori, don't miss a visit to the Church of Santa Maria a Mare. Located near the trailhead of the Path of Lemons, the 13th-century Catholic church features an ornately decorated dome and a collection of sacred artwork. Also nearby are the gardens of Palazzo Mezzacapo, which was built in the late 19th century and inspired by the chateaux of France's Loire Valley. The peaceful and lush oasis along the coast reveals terraced gardens, unique trickling fountains, and blooming plants.

Although you might think that visiting during the off-season can help save some money, it's a mistake to visit the Amalfi Coast during winter, as most hotels and attractions close their doors. During the summer, an excellent base for exploring Maiori is the highly-rated Hotel Sole Splendid, which overlooks the town's main sandy beach. Many of the charming guest rooms offer private balconies, direct sea views, and colorfully tiled floors. Within a short walk of the hotel is its private beach club, where you can relax on loungers and enjoy lunch. At the time of this writing, a hotel room here in the peak season of August will cost about $240 per night. While this price may still seem expensive, it is still reasonable compared to Positano, and the value for your stay is off the charts. For a cheaper place, Tripadvisor shows a few B&Bs that offer prices around $150 a night during peak season, but you should book in advance and be willing to compromise on comfort.

For lunch or dinner, try Anima e Passione, a charming trattoria near Maiori's beachfront promenade with affordable prices. Begin with a fish crudo or salad before tasting handmade pastas such as lemon and prawn ravioli, the freshly caught fish of the day, or a delectable wood-fired pizza. 

One of the most cherished fine dining experiences in Maiori — and the entire Amalfi Coast — is Ristorante Torre Normanna. Housed inside a late 13th-century Norman tower on a promontory overlooking the town, the restaurant serves delicious Italian cuisine with panoramic views. Local seafood is especially highlighted here, and top choices include lemon-flavored risotto with shrimp scampi, sea bream filet, and pappardelle with Tyrrhenian lobster. Despite its refined milieu, the prices here can be quite reasonable, with à-la-carte pasta and fish entrées starting at around 20 euros ($24).