Colorado's Abandoned Ski Resort Still Thrives As A Breathtaking Backcountry Ski Paradise

With towering mountains and powdery snow, Colorado has earned its reputation as the best state for skiing in America. However, while glamorous towns like Vail or Aspen welcome millions annually, many of the state's older resorts lie abandoned. While it might sound a bit spooky, there's an upside to abandoned ski resorts — you can still ski their runs. Those who abhor the commercialization of popular ski towns often make their way to these areas for peaceful backcountry skiing. The most popular of the abandoned ski resorts is Geneva Basin, around 90 minutes from Denver.

Geneva Basin Ski Resort was created in 1963 by the English family, who originally named it Indianhead. It featured two chairlifts and two Poma lifts — a vertical pole with a circular seat that skiers hold onto as it pulls them up — and was fairly popular among locals in the 1960s and 1970s. However, financial troubles quickly became evident in the resort's operations. Compared to more attractive ventures like nearby Breckenridge, Geneva Basin Ski Resort seemed bedraggled and poorly maintained. One comment on Colorado Ski History mentioned the resort's poor maintenance in the '70s and '80s. "...The ski lifts were powered by gas engines ... and some of the engines would sputter and die while on the lift."

After changing hands multiple times, Geneva Basin came to an end in 1984, when one of the main chairlifts detached from its cable. The Colorado Tramway Board issued an ultimatum: repair the chairlift or the resort remains closed. With no money for the required repairs, the resort remained shuttered, and the main lodge was eventually burned down by the U.S. Forest Service. Ironically, the area has since become far more popular as a backcountry skiing destination, as winter sport lovers take advantage of the secluded ski trails.

Backcountry skiing at Geneva Basin Ski Resort

While most of Colorado's ski towns are best experienced during winter, Geneva Basin is usually a late-winter to spring ski destination. It's popular for the same reason these less-crowded Colorado ski towns are beloved: it's virtually devoid of other skiers. The isolated area and old ski runs make Geneva Basin "Colorado's most famous abandoned ski town," according to The Denver Post, as more people ditch the crowds of glitzy resort towns for the area's serene natural beauty.

There are no lifts, so you'll need to skin (uphill ski) your way to the top of the basin before you can careen downhill. The area has a mix of beginner-friendly green runs. A few black diamond runs are also available for more experienced skiers. Those who've tackled the runs at Geneva Basin Ski Resort have often reported that the best part is how open the runs are, with only a few trees flanking the sides.

Because the uphill climb to reach the summit takes a while, some skiers set up camp at the base or stay in the old ski patrol hut, which remains standing to this day. This old, wooden structure is typically musty and dusty, according to the Denver Post, but it remains available for visitors to use as part of a verbal agreement between the locals and the U.S. Forest Service.

Preparing for your trip to Geneva Basin Ski Resort

There are two main approaches to reach Geneva Basin from Denver. Visitors can arrive from the north near Georgetown or from the south via Highway 285. The north approach is far more strenuous, as it requires you to skin your way over Guanella Pass to reach the basin. While skinning may be the best way to bypass lift lines at crowded resorts, this particular path is a lot more difficult and takes too long if you're only making a day trip to the area. Instead, most visitors recommend the southern approach. Drive from Denver along Highway 285 until you reach Grant. At Grant, turn right onto Guanella Pass Road and continue approximately 7 miles north until you reach the winter access gate, from where you begin touring. Turns All Year recommends skinning up from off the road, on a defined skin track near Mill Creek to the west, as high winds can scrape the snow clear off the road.

While Geneva Basin has fairly easy backcountry ski runs, you'll still need the right gear to make the trip possible. Skiing essentials are a given, but beyond that, you'll need skins, which act like a carpet for your skis and prevent them from sliding down when you're going uphill. These are necessary for a trip to Geneva Basin, as skiing uphill is the only way to get to the top of the trails. You might want to switch out your alpine boots for backcountry boots, which are more lightweight and comfortable for touring. They can also switch between two modes for walking and skiing. Because avalanches are always a possibility during peak winter seasons, we also recommend carrying an avalanche beacon and attaching it to your body. 

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