Forget Dublin, Visit Ireland's Underrated 'Marble City' With Festivals, Tasty Bites, And A Scenic Castle
Ireland brims with endless enchantments, from its unparalleled, verdant beauty and rich folklore to the country's notoriously friendly locals and frothy pints of nearly three-century-old Guinness. Travelers to the Emerald Isle will discover no shortage of bustling cities and delightful towns bursting with history, spirit, abundant cultural offerings, and irrepressible Celtic flair. But while the popular city of Dublin boasts urban thrills and impressive charms, one underrated yet remarkable destination, Kilkenny, is just a quick 90-minute drive south of the Irish capital. A lovely, lively, and historic city, Kilkenny is home to the scenic Kilkenny Castle, and offers a wealth of foodie hotspots alongside a buzzy roster of annual festivals.
Kilkenny is famously known as Ireland's "Marble City" after hundreds of years of producing a finely-grained black marble (that's actually a limestone), which it heavily exported to Britain, enriching this city on the banks of the winding Nore River. A lone Kilkenny Black Marble Quarry still exists, which specializes in manufacturing primarily fireplaces and stove surrounds. However, eagle-eyed visitors can spot Kilkenny marble all over town, from the city's buildings and paved walkways to the arched, 18th century Green's Bridge.
Ensconced within Ireland's "Ancient East," a lush region where some 5,000 years of history comes alive with sprawling castles, ruins, pre-historic sites, and monasteries, Kilkenny is home to a wonderful and weird array of medieval treasures. Must-visit sites include the magnificent Kilkenny Castle, the longest original established Irish priory Black Abbey, the 14th century Kyteler's Inn—notoriously built by Ireland's first convicted witch — and the ancient, mysterious Kilmogue Portal Tomb, Ireland's tallest single chamber tomb, called a "dolman."
Adventure back through medieval times at iconic Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny's crowning jewel is the 800-year-old Kilkenny Castle, a majestic stone edifice situated along Ireland's Medieval Mile, a trail along which reside some of the city's most historic sights. Constructed in 1260 by William Marshall, 4th Earl of Pembroke, the imposing structure eventually passed into the hands of the Butler family, remaining in their possession for over 600 years. Several restorations have reshaped Kilkenny Castle over the centuries, yet it remains a top attraction, unlike Blarney Castle which Rick Steves calls Ireland's worst place to visit.
A splendid country estate remodeled primarily during the Victorian era, the castle reflects styles, structures, and ornamentation from across the ages. The French chateau-inspired castle houses a circular medieval tower, 18th century tapestries, rare Gothic wallpaper, and a smattering of Georgian furnishings. Fascinating rooms and galleries are open to the public, including a pristinely preserved nursery filled with Victorian toys, and a picture gallery hung with family portraits and tapestries beneath a hand-painted ceiling in the Pre-Raphaelite style. Surrounding the castle are 52 acres of manicured parkland dotted by pathways, fountains, a lake, and formal rose garden.
If you're bringing kids, visit the Education section of the Kilkenny Castle website to explore and download activity sheets that help enliven the castle for young minds. The castle is open year round, and only closes from the 25th – 27th of December. At the time of this writing, self-guided admission is free for children ages 12 and under, discounted for students and seniors, and affordable for all — plus it's free to walk the parklands without entering the castle.
Party and eat your way through Kilkenny's vibrant festival and foodie scenes
Kilkenny is a premier festival destination that hosts an annual roster of amazing events. Nothing compares to celebrating St. Patrick's Day in Kilkenny, where locals splash out with a four-day extravaganza. Eighty events, including a citywide parade, marching bands, concerts, family entertainment, and a pyrotechnic drum spectacular, are on show at the Kilkenny St. Patrick's Day Festival. There's even a festival within the festival as the Kilkenny Tradfest, a gathering of Irish musicians and dancers performing at historic city venues, runs concurrently with St. Paddy's events.
Kilkenny's pageantry continues on par with the famed arts and festival hub of Galway. In summer, the Cat Laughs Festival draws some of Ireland's — and the world's — best jokesters to town. Summertime also welcomes the Music Series at the Rose Garden at Kilkenny Castle, and the Kilkenny Arts Festival. Autumn honors the visual arts when Kilkenny Animated arrives in October, followed by the Subtitle European Film Festival in November. Locals ring in the Christmas season with festive markets and live concerts at Yulefest. And no self-respecting foodie would dare miss Savour Kilkenny Food Festival, one of Ireland's biggest food events spotlighting over 100 food vendors from around the country.
Speaking of food, dining in Kilkenny doesn't disappoint. The city boasts two Michelin-starred restaurants: the French-inspired Campagne and The Lady Helen. Award-winning Arán Artisan Bakery and Bistro wows with house-baked breads, scones, and authentic Danish, plus all-day brunch. 100% Irish beef and craft cocktails are on the menu at foodie fave, Butcher. There's no escaping Kilkenny without noshing classic pub food, and there's plenty here. Historic Kyteler's Inn, established in 1324, blends and bottles its own Irish Whiskey that you can sip while listening to live traditional Irish music.