Hungary's Lively College City In Wine Country Is An Affordable, Under-The-Radar Escape

Hungary is an enigmatic country at first glance. Landlocked in the Carpathian Basin of Central Europe, it sits at a crossroads of civilizations, which for centuries has made its people carve out their unique identity while having to bridge their culture with neighbors in every direction. Those cultural crossroads are at their brightest in the picturesque university city of Pécs, an architectural and artistic hidden gem which sits hidden in Hungary, the European country where the U.S. dollar goes far.

Just under three hours south from the busy touristic streets of Budapest and a short drive from the Croatian border, Pécs lies in the foothills of the Mecsek Mountains. Pronounced "Pe-tch", the area's history spans across millennia and has seen Roman, Celtic, and Ottoman rulers as its landlords. Now a lively city and home to the oldest university in Hungary, Pécs hosts over 20,000 students, with its campuses spread around the historic city center, contributing to its youthful atmosphere. 

Hang out in local cafés surrounded by beautiful university buildings, and indulge yourself on a budget not far above a student's — this affordable destination costs under $800 for all expenses during a week's stay. Thanks to its location in the heart of Hungary's Baranya Hills wine country, Pécs also offers the opportunity to sample its harvest in a trendy wine bar or visit a nearby winery, making this city one of the best hidden gem destinations in all Hungary. 

As Hungary's first university was founded in Pécs in 1367, the city continues to flourish to this day both due to its medieval legacy and its burgeoning youthful spirit. The Janus Pannonius Museum, named after the city's celebrated bishop and an ardent contributor to its academic spirit, is located in the city's historic center, covering a wide range of exhibits from fine arts to archaeology. Incidentally, the Early Christian Necropolis of Pécs, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the largest Christian tomb complex outside of Italy, is right around the corner. While bursting at the seams with art and history, Pécs certainly stands out as a cheaper, less touristy alternative to Budapest's increasing overcrowding issues that haunt many a European capital. 

Pécs earned the title of one of Europe's Capitals of Culture, and the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter will immerse you in the city's cultural heritage — showcasing the stunning porcelain produced by the Zsolnay family who called the quarter its home dating back to 1851. Marvel at the Gyugyi Collection of vases and pots finished with Eosin (Zsolnay's secret iridescent glazing technique), visit a glove-manufacturing atelier on site, and admire contemporary art at the m21 Gallery. This crown jewel of Pécs is sure to leave an impression. After all, it's East-Central Europe's largest cultural building complex. As it is large, opening hours vary throughout the exhibits, so it's wise to check out their website to plan around your schedule.

Having worked up a healthy appetite sightseeing around Pécs, a heartwarming and cozy corner is the next order of business. If you want to eat like a local in a place that'll make you feel like you belong, seek out the István Pince (István Cellar). This humble hole in the wall hides a delicious menu in its underground cellar, where you can stuff yourself like a cabbage roll under $13. Try its famous bean goulash, "Gypsy roast", and a local wine spritzer called fröccs, pronounced "frerch". Reviewers sing high praise for the establishment, with a 4.6 rating from over 700  Google reviews. 

Thanks to its sub-Mediterranean climate and the cover of the Mecsek Mountains, the Pécs region is well known for its winemaking. Yielding familiar varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as local native grapes like Kekfrankos, the wines are full-bodied and pair well with the locally hearty cuisine. The Eleven wine bar on Széchenyi Square is the perfect venue to spoil your palate with its rich selection and a meal under $40, and you can buy a few bottles to take home at their kiosk as well. Just a 40-minute drive east of Pécs you'll find the artisanal Planina Borház Winery where you can experience an excellent and budget-friendly tasting tour of the local wines for $17, led by the owner.